29 March,2026 08:41 AM IST | Mumbai | Dhara Vora Sabhnani
Designs by Payal Pratap; Vivek Karunakaran; Taarini Anand; Abraham & Thakore
At a time when sartorial indulgence can feel out of step with the world outside, the March edition of Lakmé Fashion Week leaned into a quieter, more considered kind of luxury. Makeup stayed restrained, silhouettes were seasonless and largely gender-agnostic, and a shift toward sustainable practices and body-positive dressing shaped the mood.
Designer Anurag Gupta presented a new textile created from natural fibres and engineered using plasma technology processing, in addition to using cotton grown using low water and pesticides. CRCLE by Varshne used naturally dyed Weganool from Auroville, leather offcuts from Chennai, and has recycled over 400 kg of textile waste, 18 months since launch.
A notable highlight was Kartik Research, presenting in India after gaining international attention - its reception underscoring a growing international appreciation for desi aesthetics overlooked locally. Traditional occasion-wear took a backseat, with just a few lehengas in sight - perhaps a sign of the economic instability that has hit every industry. Instead, staples like florals and stripes were revisited with fresh perspective, while quilting and knitwear signalled a craft shift beyond conventional embroideries. Here's a closer look at runway trends that can translate seamlessly into everyday wardrobe.
Why wear pants in this heat when you can breeze through in a cotton lungi? Designer Vivek Karunakaran who paired bomber jackets and blazers with veshti; Payal Pratap used Madras checks with denim, and Abraham and Thakore presented urban jacket pairings.
Silken tassels and fringed hems moved several collections including AK|OK by Anamika Khanna, Gen Next designer Saim, and Line Outline by Deepit Chugh.
Just when we thought this trend from the mid-2000s was about to fade out, balloon hems made an appearance at Rahul Mishra's AFEW show, and was seen on many people off the runway this season too.
Pinstripes, or bold, stripes that merge into checks, or juxtaposed with florals, stripes were everywhere this season.
If A-list stars like Shah Rukh Khan, Pharrell Williams, even Hardik Pandya have showed us something, it's that men love their âit' bags too. Dhruv Vaish's embroidered bag is a must-have piece, so are CRCLE's korai grass bags.
Be it with Bhagalpuri silk at Samant Chauhan's show, for light cotton trenches or 3D floral quilts by Jubinav, designers showed how quilting and patchwork can be much more than a hobby.
Embroideries have been India's forte but we have been seeing several younger designers experiment with knitting techniques. Taarini Anand, CRCLE, and Anurag Gupta showcased crochet in various aesthetics.
Layering your outfits with heavy trenches and jackets is an easy way to look cool, but unfortunately India's weather does not always allow one to. Works of younger designers like Aneeth Arora of Péro, Chola, and Triune have been creating new rules of layering without breaking into a sweat using Indian cottons and knits.
Florals for Spring is an obvious choice, but the flowers this season were either too big, reminding us of the works of artist Georgia O'Keeffe (Studio Verandah), or traditional motifs were used to create a bold pattern for a pantsuit (Bhumika Sharma). Also presented as micro embroideries at shows by Across29 by Shruti Sancheti and Kartik Research.
They were a popular detail this season, as seen in this shacket by Abraham & Thakore.
