Alfred Cinema, near Grant Road junction. Manto lived near this now forgotten cinema hall

Books cover every available inch of this room, piled floor to ceiling, and a man in his seventies sits in the centre, reading. This room in Khan building - near a bridge that overlooks a derelict railway track - could well be where Manto lived in the 1930s. Then, Rafique Baghdadi looks up from his book with a smile. Baghdadi, who conducts Manto walks and is an expert on the city's history, has his lesson ready, starting from Manto's birth.