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Fine dining is fu**ed! Long live fine dining

Safety matters most, but will dining out guidelines take the joy out of eating? Chef-restaurateurs in India and around the world debate a post-lockdown future.

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(Left) Currently, Asian fine dine restaurant House of Mandarin has seven people working in the kitchen, including chefs and the housekeeping team led by Chef Subhash Kunche. On the service side, five people handle order taking and delivery. The team stays

(Left) Currently, Asian fine dine restaurant House of Mandarin has seven people working in the kitchen, including chefs and the housekeeping team led by Chef Subhash Kunche. On the service side, five people handle order taking and delivery. The team stays

There are a set of coasters at Alex Sanchez-s Kala Ghoda bistro bar, Americano, that carry the Italian saying, Avere ill prosciutto sugli occhi. Literally, it means to have ham over one-s eyes. What it refers to is to have to wake up to rude reality.

The chef-restaurateur from San Francisco, who found fame in Mumbai-s food and drink landscape as a 26-year-old, knows it-s going to be tough to accept the new truth. In March 2019, after a sabbatical of self-discovery and travelling through Italy, he returned to this city to do what all chefs dream of, set up his own restaurant. He was going to serve American-inspired Italian fare and world class cocktails in a glamorous South Mumbai outpost at Kala Ghoda that was designed to celebrate shared spaces through a community table and rest-your-elbow stations in window alcoves perfect for pairs.

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