Mawa magic: Mumbai bids farewell to a century-old sweet tradition

Necessary innovation

The Parsis brought the ubiquitous cake to the city’s cafe culture. “It was a part and parcel of growing up for most members of the community,” reveals culinary historian Kurush Dalal. The origins though, have multiple claimants. Royal Bakery on Pune’s MG Road is one of the contenders, along with the erstwhile Grant Road institution.

The now shuttered B Merwan and Co. at Grant Road. Pic/Satej Shinde

Dalal points out, “It comes from Kumas — a Parsi delicacy that was home-made; baked on coals in double boiler attachments or a stove top.” Parag Phadnis of Eat Well Cold Storage in Mulund, observes, “You have to remember refrigerators were not commonplace. The only way to preserve milk was to boil it repeatedly, creating mawa/khoya, the key ingredient.” Phadnis continues to stock the famed cupcakes from Pune’s Kayani Bakery at his Mulund address to great demand till date. “It is a tea time cake, and a part of nostalgia for Mumbaikars,” he elaborates.

Kumas. Pic courtesy/Niloufer’s kitchen; (right) Kurush Dalal

Egalitarian economics

Like any Mumbai food, it was also representative of the city’s economics. Jehangir Patel, the long-time editor of Parsiana, adds, “Irani cafes serve everyone across class and religious divides, and through the day. They were located conveniently, often in business districts and near railway stations. The fare was freshly made every day, and affordable. The mawa cakes themselves were simple in taste, and perfect with tea.”

Mawa cake from Kayani Bakery in Pune; (right) Parag Phadnis

Zend chimes in saying that cakes were not instantly ordered then, and the humble mawa cake was an ever-ready alternative: “Like the vada pav, simple and delicious.”

Then, there is the consistency. Over a century, and bakers still swear by a common recipe with certain variations. Elaichi, jaifal, vanilla, malai, eggs and mawa are key ingredients — No margarine, Zend warns. Dalal points out that some restaurants would use a touch of rava to add texture. “You now have the eggless version, but the traditional one has to have eggs,” adds Phadnis

Yazdani’s version of the dessert; (right) Zyros Zend

Taste of nostalgia

For many, they are a throwback. Dalal remembers visiting his paternal grandmother’s sister in Grant Road, and bingeing on a treat of two mawa cakes, and sweet Roger’s ice cream soda from B Merwan. The mawa cake was the standard to measure the quality of a Parsi cafe or bakery.

Jehangir Patel

Not everyone fell in love with it. The historian’s wife, Rhea Dalal admits her first experience of the dessert at the Grant Road hub was a little underwhelming. “That said, it was a simple, sweet dish, easy-to-make. Not everything has to be showy and impressive,” says the home baker.

Changing times

Rhea Dalal

The explosion of cafes and rising overhead costs have left these traditional institutions on the edge. For bakers like Zend, the rising clamour over the use of wood ovens throws another spanner in the works. “It is like asking us to retire our David Beckham. It is just not the same,” he quips. For a tea-time snack that has survived war and changing tastes, this might be just another phase. 

Mawa cake fix

Mawa cakes from Cafe Colony

Kyani & Co.
AT Jer Mahal Estate, Jagannath Shankar Sheth Road, Marine Lines. 
CALL 8928616793

Sassanian Restaurant and Bakery
AT 98, Marine View, Marine Lines. 
CALL 8976091334

Britannia & Co.
AT Wakefield House, Ballard Estate, Fort. 
CALL 222615264

Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery
AT 11 A, Cawasji Patel Street, Kala Ghoda, Fort.

Cafe Excelsior
AT Kitab Mahal, AK Nayak Marg, Fort.
CALL 22074543

Olympia Coffee House
AT Rahim Mansion No. 1, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Colaba. 
CALL 9920992555

Ideal Corner
AT Hornby View Building, Rustom Sidhwa Marg, Fort.
CALL 9930260703

Cafe Colony Restaurant
AT G1, Shrikant Lodge, Hindu Colony, Dadar East.
CALL 224142321

Eatwell Cold Storage 
Call 9594081810 (for orders)