Meher Marfatia: Camel to cafe to Capstan

He came on camel back mule back and finally jumped a train from Karachi to Bombay Nothing could stop the gritty 15yearold Iranian peasant boy from Yazd who travelled 2500 kilometres the hardest way to reach the city of his dreams in 1929Khodamurad Meherwan realised early that his humble village of Mazrekalantary held dim prospects The saltwater around did allow the best quality pistachios and almonds to grow But it was futile slaving in dry fruit farms and orchards like other men of his clan while the women tended to their kitchens and expertly wove longsleeved clothing down to their typical white jute slippers called malikiKhodamurad seen here with wife Vahbiz and their son Jehanbux who is now a cardiologist in GermanyldquoHe was running away from no future in Iranrdquo says Khodamuradrsquos daughter Banoo With warm candour the 75yearold sits to tell the tale of her feisty fatherrsquos journey mdash ldquofrom camel to cafeacuterdquo she calls it mdash with visible pride Banoogoshasp and her 68yearold sister Homayun Namdarian make a spirited pair narrating their ancestral history with vibrancy and volubility ldquoCall us Banoo and Homai too long names we haverdquo they urge within minutes of us meetingA picture of one of the earliest menu cards printed at MajesticStopped at the Afghanistan border as he rode a donkey Khodamurad was asked his surname lsquoI donrsquot have onersquo was the simple answer Thatrsquos when he came to be christened Khodamurad Meherwan AfkhamKhodamurad with grandson ShapurOnce in Bombay Khodamurad found a mentor in Sarosh Kaka an uncle who got him sweeping the floor of The New Majestic Restaurant amp Stores below Capitol Cinema at VT for five rupees a day Banoorsquos son Shahzad clocks in a 14hour workday at Majestic which was established in 1860 and stayed open till midnight selling toiletries stationery cutlery toys tobacco and Kodak photographic supplies Later Banoorsquos husband Behram worked at Majestic as well Shahzad took over in 1984 returning from London to find customers wooed with draught beer and a classic bubbleshaped jukebox blaring Bollywood hitsShahzad Khodamurad Meherwanrsquos grandson at Majestic Restaurant amp Bar next to Capitol Cinema near CST PicBipin KokateldquoHe had no home only hoperdquo quips Banoo about her father who slept on the footpath outside the cafeacute a thin gunny sack lining the cold ground under himAfter some years of slogging the young hero of our story was assigned a small partner share in Majestic at the age of 20 He could now think of settling a little Not only did Khodamurad and his wife Vahbiz better known as Virbai from Alliabadi village raise their own five children in a flat in Mackawee Mansion mdash still standing in Fort on Gunbow Street this is the building with Meher Cold Drink House on its ground floor They lived with an aunt and her brood of five in the same homeJehanbux their first brother was born in a goat stable in Iran the rest of them here ldquoEven with barely enough money our father generously called over so many people of our community from Iran supported them to start small businessesrdquo Homai shares In a city of military marchpasts on streets which were washed squeaky clean the Afkham front door was always open ldquoWe would help mum cook on a sigrirdquo adds Banoo On Fridays fish curry was served to anyone dropping in Between chores their mother caught shows of her adored Raj KapoorNargis starrers at CapitolAs we chat Jehanbux phones from Germany a daily call the retired cardiologist makes to the sisters His children are all renowned musicians Among them is the brilliant David Afkham principal conductor of the Spanish National Orchestra in high demand with the worldrsquos finest opera houses ldquoHe could be the next Zubin Mehtardquo declares Banoorsquos daughter interior designer Shahnaz Mahimtura of her accomplished cousinShahnaz laughs recalling how each time she wanted a soft drink at Majestic her grandfather used to counter with a chant ldquoDikra go East or West water is the bestrdquo Homai and Banoorsquos favourite piece of fatherly advice is ldquoGaya toh gaya atasa pakro mdash whatrsquos gone is gone seize the momentrdquo One catchphrase of their native Dari dialect Banoo loves is Numokhodu meaning touchwood Itrsquos what she so charmingly says asking after my kids my husband my father my work Mistyeyed she marvels ldquoImagine from real poverty that selfmade man groomed himself to acquire pucca British tastes like Capstan cigarettes Hennessey whisky but never learnt to write a word of English except for his signaturerdquoKhodamuradrsquos family prepares to welcome Jamshedi Navroze Irani New Year marked on the March 21st Spring Equinox Because the calendar year actually changes at 1030 today though they will widely wish Sobokher or Good Morning After laying the traditional table laden with Persian artefacts and food they plan to dine out I leave Banoo ticking off the last couple of days left to celebrate this feast Shersquos getting ready to visit Shahzadrsquos home across town from her in Andheri There she will whip up cool pitchers full of frothy falooda to greet family and friends with NumokhoduWrite in to Meher at mehermarfatiagmailcom