Traditionally, the Chinese serve baijiu neat and at room temperature. It's usually poured into small cups or glasses. For us, a 60 ml shot is served with a big ball of frozen ice in a medium-sized glass. We get a whiff of the alcohol that the sommelier places on the bar top. It's clear and can be mistaken for vodka. When we are told it has an alcohol content of between 38 per cent and 50 per cent, we look at it with wary eyes. It's a work day.

We are trying the Jangxiaobai Pure, the first premium baijiu to launch in India, currently only available at Bandra's Hakkasan. The bar is dimly-lit and offers a fitting ambience. We are trying to place the aroma of the baijiu, often considered the equivalent of Japan's sake. We think ripe fruit. But, research reveals that it is made by fermenting grain or rice in earthern pits for months, has the aroma of tropical fruit, especially pineapple, banana and guava, and an earthy cheese-like note.