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How to pakao pakodas

Before pakodas were considered junk, they were staples for the soul. A new cookbook revives the art of making them

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Sehjan (drumstick) ke phoolon ki pakodi is one of the rare recipes in the book

Sehjan (drumstick) ke phoolon ki pakodi is one of the rare recipes in the book

There can't be a better time to talk about deep-fried treats than the monsoon. In India, however, we have enough versions of pakodas to have a new chai-time treat every day for at least a year. Author Sangeeta Khanna's book, Pakodas: The snack for all seasons, itself has 190 of them and an additional 13 pakoda curries and 37 chutneys.

Three years ago, when Khanna was writing a column for a newspaper, she observed that the new generation thinks that pakodas are junk food. The healthy-fad machinery went completely against the humble treat. The irony of it, she says, "is that they don't even know what the real thing is. Even the traditional names of pakodas are forgotten."

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