At first appearance, James Ferreira's new, limited-edition collections titled Lady James and James Gent appear to be pieces of polished clothing with a price tag to match. Behind it, however, is a specific method of design, where every part of the hooded kaftan dress with front drape gathers and tassel details, for instance, has been cut and draped with precision from two Bhujodi shawls in a jigsaw pattern to ensure there is zero or less post-production waste. As Indians, Ferreira observes, we are traditionally frugal people, but we lost that innate character in design. "The few [designers] who have managed to break into the Paris Fashion Week calendar, have done it on the strength of textures and textiles that Indian crafts offer. But, where is their own display of talent in developing shapes and silhouettes? It's an empty, empty design world," he rues.

Girgaum resident James Ferreira