Bhatti gone cold

Updated: Jan 29, 2020, 10:31 IST | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi | Mumbai

A new Santacruz takeaway scores on a few dishes and packaging but its USP, the tandoor, lets you down

Biryani in an open claypot
Biryani in an open claypot

Food: Uneven
Delivery: Efficient
Packaging: Eco-friendly
Verdict: 0.5/4

A surprise visit to an anti-social friend on her birthday called for ordering lunch, instead of heading out and enjoying the city’s faux winter sun. Since the mood was Indian, and we were starving, we decided to sample fare from a bhatti (tandoor) in Santacruz west —Jaspal Di Bhatti.

Lassi in a glass bottle
Lassi in a glass bottle

The menu offers desi authentic North Indian and Mughlai fare and kebabs but we also fell for the massive discount offered on the app. First up, the prawns koliwada at its original price of R600 was on the higher side. What hurt more was that it tasted like a disaster. The food was delivered in time — under 30 minutes — so there had to be a convincing reason behind the tasteless batter. While the prawns were well cooked, we couldn’t go beyond a couple of pieces. The tandoori malai broccoli (R350) scored high on taste, but unfortunately, it lost on account of having turned soggy.

The butter chicken (R400) came in an eco-friendly brown kraft paper container and tasted just like any other Mughlai-style gravy. The point is, when you order from a tandoor eatery, you expect a smoky flavour in the meat. This one was entirely lacking in it. Also the wheat rumali (R100) was undercooked; again, not what you would expect from a place that has the word ‘bhatti’ as part of its brand name.

Tandoori malai broccoli
Tandoori malai broccoli

What saved the day was the chicken tikka biryani (R450) that arrived in a clay pot. The rice was full of flavour; the meat was well cooked and the fragrance of the spices and the mild aroma of kewda was spot on. We washed it down with lassi (R120) that came in a glass bottle. It was a happy (and satiating) ending though we would have preferred if Jaspal had paid more attention to his bhatti.

Butter chicken and roomali roti
Butter chicken and roomali roti

The eco-friendly packaging
The eco-friendly packaging

Time 8 am to 4 am on all days
At Bandra (East and West), Santacruz (East and West), Kalina, Vakola, Juhu and Khar.
Call 8879421272

1/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0.5/4 Average. Jaspal Di Bhatti didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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