I am inexplicably eager to dine at Makhan, Brijwasi’s first restaurant, at Kalbadevi. Then, I think, may be it isn’t that inexplicable, after all. There is a childhood memory of my father opening a Brijwasi (always Brijwasi) mithai box to reveal foil-coated chamcham. Squeals follow. There is also one of an idyllic afternoon spent walking through Kalbadevi higgledy-piggledy khau gallis, scents of comfort food from the nearby Friends Joshi Union Club, Thacker Bhojanalaya and Surti, wafting out to tease. My expectations duly put into context, a friend and I walk into Makhan, and wonder whether it can really live up to the legends who have stood the test of time at Kalbadevi. The restaurant, done up in earthy yellows and maroons, is spacious and humble -- which we think is delightfully in sync with the neighbourhood.

The Kesar Ghevar at Makhan. (Below) The Gattey Ki Subzi is soft and adequately spiced