Master the art of quiet luxury with expert tips on layering sheers, styling oversized kurtas, and keeping linen fresh all through the long Eid day
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As the crescent moon signals the arrival of Eid 2026, the sartorial landscape is undergoing a profound transformation. The days of stifling, heavy silks and restrictive, gold-laden brocades are giving way to a new philosophy: quiet regality. This season, festive menswear is shedding its weight in favour of liquid linen and structural sheer—concepts that prioritize the wearer’s comfort without sacrificing an ounce of prestige.
The modern man is no longer content with being a passive participant in tradition; he is looking for garments that breathe with him, from the early morning Salat to the late-night family Dawat. To navigate this shift toward breezy, effortless luxury, we sat down with two luminaries of Indian couture: Archana Jaju, creative director of her eponymous label known for heritage craftsmanship, and Aisha Rao, the founder and creative director of her namesake label celebrated for her colour-forward perspective.
The fabric revolution: Beyond the heavy silks
Archana Jaju notes, “There has been a decisive move toward fabrics that allow the garment to move naturally while still maintaining an elegant drape." Her top recommendations for a breathable festive season include:
1. Linen: It carries a relaxed texture that instantly feels summer-appropriate while still looking refined when tailored into kurtas or Nehru jackets.
2. Cotton voile: Soft, sheer, and lightweight, it works beautifully for layered kurtas, giving a breezy and refined finish.
3. Khadi: I gravitate toward khadi because it carries a sense of heritage. It brings understated sophistication while keeping the look light.
4. Silk-cotton blends: Perfect for festive occasions, they combine the softness and breathability of cotton with the subtle sheen of silk, giving outfits a more celebratory feel without making them heavy.
5. Chanderi: Its subtle sheen and elegant fall give it a luxurious feel, while still being breathable. This makes it ideal for tunics, kurtas, and light jackets.
Elevating the everyday: How to make linen festive
Linen is often associated with casual summer dressing, but Jaju argues that the secret lies in the tailoring and texture:
1. Tailored perspective: A well-cut linen kurta with clean lines or a softly structured Nehru jacket layered over it can immediately make the outfit feel more polished.
2. Textural contrast: When linen is paired with another fabric like chanderi or a light silk layer, the contrast subtly elevates the look.
3. Intricate detailing: Tone-on-tone embroidery, delicate thread work, or carefully chosen buttons can add character without overpowering the natural simplicity of linen.
4. Intentional accessories: A classic watch, a pair of beautifully crafted juttis, or even a subtle pocket square can transform a very minimal outfit into something that feels special enough for Eid.
Mastering the oversized silhouette
The oversized look is undeniably trending, but pulling it off requires a focus on balance and proportion:
1. Visual balance: A relaxed kurta, for example, looks great with more fitted trousers or straight-cut pants creating visual balance. The garment can still feel loose and comfortable, but it doesn’t appear shapeless.
2. Subtle structure: Even in oversized garments, elements like defined shoulders, well-placed seams, or soft pleats can help maintain form. These details give the garment purpose.
3. Anchoring with layers: A lightweight waistcoat or Nehru jacket can introduce another dimension while giving the silhouette more structure.
4. Confident ease: Ultimately, oversized fashion is about embracing ease and confidence. When proportions are balanced and the styling feels intentional, the result is relaxed yet sophisticated.
The art of the sheer: Transparency with sophistication
Sheer fabrics can feel intimidating, but Jaju suggests thoughtful layering for family gatherings:
1. Coordinated layers: A lightweight kurta or slip in a similar shade allows the sheer fabric to remain the focus while ensuring the outfit feels comfortable.
2. Proportional hemlines: I often prefer the inner kurta to be slightly shorter than the sheer outer layer so the top layer falls beautifully and creates a soft sense of movement.
3. Strategic sleeves: A sleeveless inner layer works beautifully under sheer long sleeves, while a fuller inner sleeve can add dimension if the outer layer is shorter.
4. Aesthetic restraint: In my opinion, the most important aspect of styling sheer fabrics is restraint. When the layering is subtle and the colours remain soft and harmonious, sheer pieces can feel graceful.
The palette of 2026: From dark hues to pastel power
Aisha Rao encourages men to move from darker, heavier hues to lighter, breezier tones. Her guide to the new palette:
1. The Entry point: Ivory carries a timeless sophistication and works seamlessly in festive silhouettes allowing the craftsmanship to enhance the garment.
2. The 'old money' neutral: Beige has a refined, almost 'old money' charm, understated yet extremely polished.
3. Sophisticated brights: Butter yellow and pastel pink carry a gentle warmth that tends to flatter a wide range of skin tones while still feeling sophisticated, they bring a subtle brightness to festive dressing without becoming overpowering.
4. The seasonal refresh: Pistachio green has a refreshing quality that feels distinctly seasonal while still remaining elegant and versatile in menswear.
5. Narrative prints: Prints add a sense of movement and character while maintaining the brand’s signature narrative of whimsical couture.
The details that matter: Five essentials of quiet luxury
Jaju identifies the subtle details that elevate understated silhouettes:
1. Buttons: Handcrafted, mother-of-pearl, wood, or fabric-covered buttons bring thoughtful refinement.
2. Footwear: Embroidered juttis, minimal sandals, or sleek loafers anchor the outfit while keeping it festive.
3. Watches: A classic watch adds a touch of sophistication without stealing focus.
4. Waist accessories: Belts or fabric cords can define shape in oversized kurtas or jackets.
5. Accents: Tonal pocket squares or subtle brooches inject personality and polish.
The endurance test: Morning prayer to evening dinner
To keep a linen outfit looking fresh through a long day of celebrations, Jaju recommends:
1. The initial press: Start with a gentle press so the garment begins the day with clean lines.
2. Embrace the texture: Linen naturally develops soft creases, when it’s well pressed initially, those creases tend to look relaxed rather than messy.
3. Smart blends: Choosing linen blends instead of pure linen is another option, as the blend often holds its shape a bit better.
4. Modular layering: A lightweight jacket or vest can subtly cover areas that crease more easily and also allows you to adjust your look throughout the day.
Aisha Rao concludes, “The intention of this season is to create menswear that feels soft and playful while still maintaining a sharp, confident presence."
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