How North East cuisines celebrate the earthy flavour of bamboo shoots

Mumbaibased home chef Gitika Saikia uses bamboo extensively in her popups throughout the year As somebody who is from the foothills of Assam she relies on sourcing the freshest bamboo shoots from the market in her hometownCurrently on her way back from the northeastern state she is getting her stock for the next two months something she hasnrsquot been able to do easily for more than a year due to the Covid19 pandemic ldquoI am going to boil it slightly here in Assam freeze it pack it and get it there Fresh bamboo shoots are liked more than the fermented bamboo shoots by most people whom I serve in Mumbairdquo Saikia explainsWorld Bamboo Day is celebrated on September 18 every year 2009 onwards to increase awareness about bamboo around the globe In India many regions boast the use of bamboo in different ways but most importantly in food Diners in the financial capital too have been getting to sample the special ingredient thanks to chefs who are showcasing in their menu Saikia uses the plant to serve and celebrate authentic dishes from her region in her popup and home delivery kitchen lsquoGitikarsquos Pakghorrsquo which she started in the city in 2014Gitika sources fresh bamboo shoots from the market close to her home in the foothills of Assam for her popups in Mumbai Photo Courtesy Gitika SaikiaFresh vs fermentedSaikia notes that in Assam bamboo is available easily during this time of the year in different varieties Locally they are called jatiba bhalukaba and rattan cane and are grown in everybodys backyard but are not widely consumed because they are bitter The ones obtained by Saikia are the kokoba variety which are not only tastier but also not bitter They have a good yield too something the others arenrsquot famous forWhile Saikia sources fresh bamboo shoots from her hometown she also makes use of fermented bamboo The fresh versions are preferable because of the strong scent of the latter which many people who arenrsquot accustomed to it may not likeThough the kind of bamboo differs with the region the use of fresh bamboo is simple it is boiled and tossed with mashed potatoes and vegetables or meats including pork chicken and fish ldquoIf we want to make the vegetarian style we heat mustard oil and splatter yellow mustard few pods of garlic little salt and add the finely chopped bamboo shoots We also add this vegetarian version to mashed potato jackfruit seeds and papaya It is also cooked with mashed fish chicken and pork in the nonvegetarian options She notes that some of the Assamese specialities which are really popular are bamboo shoots made with pork A stirfry with pond fishes cooked using fermented bamboo is another favouriteIn Mizoram Josie says since bamboo is seasonal it is cherished by the people who not only try traditional dishes but also try to create something new In picture Bamboo shoot with pork lard and green chilli Photo Josie RenthleiJosiersquos Kitchen is another popular northeast food haunt in the city started by Josie Paris Renthlei from Madh Island only two years ago A costume designer and stylist in the film industry by day her love for food made her cook for her friends who encouraged her to start the kitchen Hailing from Mizoram Renthlei says the locals there have a special relationship with bamboo Since bamboo is seasonal it is cherished in Mizoram by the people The bamboo shoots play a major role during the season because people not only try the traditional dishes but also try to create something newAmong the many different ways bamboo is consumed boiled bamboo shoots are very popular in her community ldquoWe just boil it and shred into smaller pieces and mix it with salt and smoked chili to make a chutneyrdquo Beyond that bamboo features in a variety of stews side dishes and chutneys ldquoBay is a stew made from fermented pork lard and bamboo shoots It is also mixed with vegetables like pumpkin leaves brinjal and made into a stew We also fry the bamboo shoot with tender pork as it gives a distinct earthy flavour to the dish Vaipaden is another popular dish made from different vegetables including potatoes cooked together in a pressure cooker with chopped onions green chillies ginger and garlic added to make it into a chutneyrdquo she adds Bamboo is currently out of season Renthlei explains as it is available in Mizoram for three months starting in May but many people preserve it for use throughout the year She happens to be one of them ldquoThe way to preserve them is to boil but not cook them completely and once cool store them in the freezer The other way is to bathe them in salt and store themrdquo says the home chefSreejanas cloud kitchen Pork Mania serves a variety of dishes with bamboo such as pork with fermented bamboo shoot and king chili which is also her personal favourite Photo Sreejana RaiA taste of homeWhile Saikia and Renthlei incorporate bamboo in their food actively it took staying away from home for Sreejana Rai another citybased chef to fall in love with bamboo The chef who previously worked with Oberoi Hotels has been running Dumpling Khang in Vakola since 2014 Her community hailing from Jaigaon in West Bengal primarily enjoys dishes made from fresh bamboo shoots only Those are rarely available in Mumbai however so the chef ended up discovering the fermented kind through her friends from Nagaland It was love at first biteWhile her primary outpost in the city serves dumplings thukpa and Chinese food cooking with fermented bamboo convinced her to start a new cloud kitchen called Pork Mania a little over three months ago ldquoSince the bamboo dish has a strong smell I did not want people to be disturbed by it and kept a regular menu at Dumpling Khangrdquo she explains Now with her other venture she is able to dish out traditional northeastern delicacies to people who miss home food The pork with bamboo shoot and king chilli is a signature dish on the menu and her personal favourite While this is only just the start for her venture she hopes it will pick up in the near future even among those who are not accustomed to eating bamboo shootsPork bamboo shoot and king chilli by Sreejana RaiIngredientsPork meat ndash 500 gms fermented bamboo shoot ndash 250 gms ginger and garlic paste ndash as per flavour tomatoes ndash 250 gms king chilli ndash 3 ndash 4Method1 Boil the pork for 30 minutes till it is fully cooked2 Add the fermented bamboo shoot ginger garlic paste tomatoes and king chilli3 Let it simmer and serve Also Read How Mumbairsquos Kolis relish dried fish on rainy days