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Plough your way through the Sahyadri's rice bowl

Braving a furious monsoon downpour, Soma Das rode a pair of bullocks, weeded seeds and played woodcutter, as part of a fulfilling day in the fertile rice plantations of Purushwadi in Igatpuri

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Braving a furious monsoon downpour, Soma Das rode a pair of bullocks, weeded seeds and played woodcutter, as part of a fulfilling day in the fertile rice plantations of Purushwadi in Igatpuri

As we sit cooped-up in our matchbox offices, inhaling recycled air and consuming readymade food, it's easy to lose sense of unadulterated surroundings and farmlands that provide us with our daily meals.

India's staple crop, rice, proudly associated with auspiciousness and fertility down the ages, occupies an important place in most Indian meals.



So, when the opportunity to experience life in a paddy field in North Konkan came along, courtesy the folks at Grassroutes, we didn't blink.

On a rain-soaked August morning, we set off to a rice farm in Purushwadi, located 250 kms from Mumbai in the Thane district, for the real deal.

Inir Pinheiro, our guide is also one of the four co-founders of Grassroutes, an organisation working with villagers in Purushwadi and Kohane to help them earn a sustainable livelihood and provide jaded city folks an escape route to rustic farm living.

As every mile took us away from urban civilisation, the picture-postcard views of lush green valleys, gushing waterfalls and colourfully attired villagers soared our spirits.

En route, we spotted the majestic Mount Kalsubai (1,646 m), the highest peak of the Sahyadris in Maharashtra. While approaching the village, we spotted women planting rice in the fields. The thrill factor had set in.

Village Wonderland

After four hours on the road, we reached Purushwadi, where we were warmly greeted with the traditional tikka and a hibiscus flower. A hearty lunch beckoned at Balu and Shevanta Kondar's home. Balu acts as a local tour guide and is also the secretary of the Village Tourism Committee.

His home, like rest in the village, regales in rustic charm; the floor is made from cow dung with stone walls that keep the interiors cool in summer and warm in winter. Wife Shevanta gave us a quick tour inside their simple home.
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The kitchen had an interesting rice trough made of interwoven twigs and lined with cow dung. "Since it's rice transplanting season, we spend most of our time outdoors, from early morning to late evening.
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The process of rice transplanting requires some amount of skill and stamina.


The electricity is erratic but we have solar power," explained Shevanta, as we dug into a sumptuous chulha-cooked meal of rice, chapatis, two varieties of lentils and lemon pickle.

Soon, Gulab Kondar, another tour guide surfaced from nowhere, showing off a his prized catch a gigantic river crab. Amidst much prodding, I courageously held it, despite an inherent fear for all things that come with pincers.

Post our crab encounter; my initiation into village life took shape. My first task chopping wood. I watched as villagers effortlessly lifted the huge axe and sliced blocks of wood. It appeared simple but when my turn arrived, I struggled to lift the axe, which was nearly as tall as me.

Once I did, I barely escaped a heave, legs intact, considering my aim went haywire and I managed to make a slight dent into the block of wood. My arms ached but the sense of adventure was piqued, alright.

The Double Bull Experience

A steady shower didn't deter our progress to the rice fields, for a session of transplanting. Purushwadi receives heavy rainfall throughout the monsoon and today it showed no sign of ceasing.

It's this sort of weather that makes it ideal for rice growing. The region provides for several premium rice varieties, ranging from the aromatic Indrani to other interesting varieties like Kolti, Rupali, Kala Bhat and Poonam.

First up was a session of ploughing, with a pair of bullocks for company, to prepare it for sowing rice seeds. The process helps turn over the upper layer of the soil and bring up nutrients from the bottom soil, bury weeds and aerate the soil.

As I waded through the knee-deep muddy waters, following the bullocks and exerting pressure on the plough, I felt the force of the water, which threatened to make me lose my balance and fall face first. Somehow, I managed to save face, literally, and stepped onto my next challenge transplanting the rice.

Lunch at Balu and Shevanta's home included freshly made rice, chapattis, two sabzis and lemon pickle

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