As Kerala prepares to welcome the monsoon, escape to this scenic art retreat to soak in the state’s rich culture and lesser known art forms
The lakeside retreat is spread across 20 acres of a redeveloped erstwhile quarry. PICs COURTESY/SARGAALAYA
When the rains drenched Mumbai’s streets earlier this week, they might have also washed away many Mumbaikars’ daydreams of enjoying a calm, scenic monsoon in the city. While the rain gods are still in a mood, the wisest decision this monsoon, we believe, is to head straight to God’s own country. Earlier this month, this writer spent a weekend at an arts and crafts village tucked in Kerala’s Kotakkal town that has all the makings of a perfect rainy day retreat.
Visitors at a live pottery session in the village
Spread across 20 acres in Iringal village, Sargaalaya Kerala Arts and Crafts Village is home to local artisans practising age-old art forms in its spacious premises facing the calm backwaters of the Kuttiyadi river. Only a few of these practices will survive the test of time, we’re told. We’re right in time.
Wandering in hallways marked by laterite walls, carved pillars and sloped terracotta roofs above us, we’re greeted by a young man beaming with joy, as if he’d seen an old friend in us. We’ve never met, but that doesn’t seem to matter around here. The young man is Arun AK, a speech and hearing impaired terracotta artist from Maniyur. He invites us into his workshop, one of the many that dot the village.
Arun AK works on a hornbill sculpture. PICS/DEVASHISH KAMBLE (right) Sundaresan Payyanur’s recreation of St Angelo Fort Church, Kannur
Inside, Arun is working on a life-sized model of a hornbill, surrounded by completed models of many more wild creatures. He’s most excited about the shiny rooster; it won him a State Award in 2021. In his outdoor warehouse, we spot an intricately carved terracotta Ganesha idol. If we had a tinge of trust in our airlines, it’d make for a timely gift to take home, given that our city has only recently imposed a ban on Plaster of Paris idols.
Arun AK’s clay rooster won him the Kerala State Award
Arun is not the only artist turning a new page at the village. Managed by Uralungal Labour Contract Co-operative Society (ULCCS), a workers’ cooperative that was established in 1925 to uplift unemployed youth from the margins, nearly 60 artisans call the village home. “It wasn’t easy to convince these artists who were scattered all around Kerala to leave their hometowns and converge here. We sat down with them and explained how wider exposure will only help them thrive,” reveals Rajesh TK, senior general manager, Sargaalaya.
Wood carver Sundaresan Payyanur, for instance, is content that his works now sell well enough to not worry about his household expenses. His piece de resistance is a detailed recreation of the St Angels Fort Church in Kannur. Next door, artist Rineesh NM’s Kerala mural showcase is an oasis of colours. A painting portraying Lord Krishna in a scene from the Mahabharata is hung right across a glass encased piece depicting The Last Supper. A subtle reminder that we’re still in Kerala.
Rineesh NM’s Kerala Mural-style depiction of The Last Supper
While we settle down for a chat with handloom weaver NC Ayappan, our fellow visitors seem to have realised the village is not just an art haven, but a shopper’s paradise too. Huts selling bamboo mats, hemp handbags, wooden toys and upcycled jewelry pull them in. Others are drawn in by the aroma of local delicacies that are ready to be served alongside Kerala-style sadhya at the establishment’s cafeteria. But Ayappan isn’t bothered. The frail 80-year-old is quietly working his ancestral handloom, weaving cora grass mats. ”This is all I have. I won’t stop until my body gives in,” he smiles.
NC Ayappan works his handloom
Over a chat with ULCCS chairman Remeshan Palery later, over piping hot pazhampori (banana fritters), we learn of the co-operative’s principles. “You cannot negate the importance of finances in today’s age. But at the end of the day, it is people, honest ones at that, which can cause change. Sargaalaya stands as a testament to that belief,” he shares.
Remeshan Palery and Rajesh TK
On the drive back, we do the mental math behind possibly building such a village in Mumbai. Our driver briefly pauses the dancey Mollywood tune playing on the radio to tell us about the new six-lane main road we’re almost gliding on. “Does Mumbai have even bigger, smoother roads, sir?” he enquires. We know better than to lie in God’s Own Country.
NEED TO KNOW
AT Sargaalaya, Vadakara, Kotakkal, Iringal, Kerala.
HOW TO REACH
Arrive in Kannur via direct flight from Mumbai. Take Thalassery - Irikkur Road to NH 66. Follow NH 66 to Kottakkal Road in Iringal. Kannur is also well-connected by Indian Railways-run train routes.
TO BOOK A VISIT
sargaalaya.in; ulccsltd.com
Around Iringal
Head to these attractions to explore beyond Sargaalaya
Kunjali Marakkar Museum
This museum in Payyoli, nearly two kilometres from Iringal stands in memory of the Marakkar naval warriors of the 16th Century.
AT Payyoli, Kotakkal.
TIME 9 am to 5 am
Kolavi Beach
Spanning four kilometres, this pristine beach is dubbed Turtle Beach by locals for its occasional Olive Ridley sightings.
AT Kolavipalam Road, Iringal.
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