Home away from home

Born and raised in Mumbai Baba Ling or Sem Tian Ling a St Xaviers alumnus is one of the oldest Chinese restaurateurs in Mumbai taking over the reins from his father Yick Sen Ling who opened Nanking in 1945 mdash seven years after he moved to Mumbai from Swatow Shantou in ChinaAnd its nothing but fate that got him here For Yick Sen Ling who was heading the Chinese museum that was being set up in Mumbai along with his uncle couldnt return home after the Communists came to power in 1949 So he established his roots here mdash he married a South Indian and opened Lings Pavilion in Colaba There were many secondgeneration Chinese natives in Mumbai and even a China Town But after the SinoIndian War in 1962 a majority moved to the US and Canada Now there are about 200 to 300 of us here mostly married into the Indian community shares Ling who lives here with his wifeBaba Ling at Lings Pavilion The traditional vessel Ling uses to make a chimney seafood soup PicsKarishma KuenzangMumbai callingBut there has been a steady influx of people from the neighbouring country who have made Mumbai their home They travel here for work especially as chefs associated with restaurants like Yuanzhong Jia who works at Shanghai Club at ITC Grand Central in Parel Hes been with the fivestar since 2011 There was a growing curiosity for authentic Chinese food here and they were looking for chefs who could bring a different perspective on Chinese cuisine than what they had been exposed to earlier Jia who lives by himself near the hotel says There is a small but vibrant Chinese community in Mumbai now mostly professionals posted here by MNCs he observes as he reveals to us that hes acquired a liking for Bohri fareMasterchef Yuanzhong Jia ITC PicBipin KokateThen theres Chef Xiang Bin Li the chef de cuisine By The Mekong The St Regis Mumbai who shifted from Sichuan district in China a decade ago with the aim to introduce authentic cuisine to India Hes also a part of a small group of Chinese chefs in the city who meet up regularly Though Mumbai does not have its own China Town the Kwan Kung Temple is an escape for every Chinese here The Chinese Consulate too is a big part of these gatherings he sharesChef Zhang Yajunand The Grand Hyatt PicAnurag AhireMost of them have settled in Vashi Powai Bandra and South Mumbai informs Zhang Yajun the chef at Grand Hyatt who like Li moved here from the Sichuan region in 2006 for work I feel Indian culture resembles Chinese culture It makes me feel belonged he confides Hes developed an appetite for chaat vada pav and even likes watching Aamir Khans moviesThe Chindian factorWhile they may have settled in one thing thats not quite palatable for them is the desification of their cuisine Such that Yajunand has had to tweak some of his dishes by adding green chillies coriander and chilli sauce Jia says Chinese food in India also makes use of more soy sauce Its not used in so many dishes back home There is a greater emshypshyhasis on saucesAlso the cuisine varies across regions Cantonese cuisine is milder and emphasises on the seasonal or fresh ingredients whereas Sichuan cuisine that comes from my hometown is dominated by ingredients like jujube mountain chilli and Chinese olives which tend to add a little heat to the dishes But in the Indianisation of the Chinese cuisine the focus is on using spices in abundance points out LiKuai Panda at Kuai KitchenBut this wasnt the case in the 1960s when the concept of fusion food didnt exist I call it putting mirchipudina laughs Ling seated at the entrance of the eatery where he cheerily greets everyone who walks in to eat Imagine you make a curry and put cheese in it and say youve mixed Indian and French cuisine Chindian is for those who cannot gauge the authenticity of Chinese fare Stew the pork and put tons of chilli it may remind you of your mummys curry but it wont be authentic he elaboratesCelebration timeThough each region has its own specialty in China fish is an important part of the new year feast as its considered auspicious which is why Jia will be serving dishes such as Luole Hongzunyu Chashao Bao and Qiang Chao Baicai at the Lower Parel eatery till February 2 Preparations for the New Year start a week prior and includes cleaning and decorating with lanterns knots and flowers Older family members gift red packets to younger ones as a symbol of good luck and fortune informs Li who will be whipping up a feast that includes steam duck with oyster mushroom and chicken stock in Saigon sauce till February 8 Grand Hyatt plans to have a weeklong feast and a cultural show that includes a lion danceGolden treasure pockets with wild mushrooms at HakkasanAnd though he wont be whipping up a special feast this year Ling reminisces about the feast he would make when his parents were around We used to make eight to 10 dishes using oysters and sea cucumber he tells us Options that are on his menu which compel Chinese families settled in areas as far as Vashi to visit every weekOther placesButter cookie tail at KOKOCelebrate the year of the metal rat with traditional treats from the cocktail menu such as the tray of togethernessAT KOKO Kamala Mills Compound Ground Floor C Wing Trade World Lower ParelTILL January 26 1230 pm to 1 am CALL 7715963030Try the limitededition agrave la carte menu that includes dishes such as auspicious golden treasure pocketsAT Hakkasan 206 Krystal Waterfield Road Bandra West TILL February 9 12 pm to 4 pm 7 pm to 1 amCALL 61378005Opt for a lavish feast that includes pokchoy dumpling in black bean sauce and shitake hoisin baoAT Meishi The Park Hotels Juhu Tara Road Shivaji Nagar Juhu TILL January 9 12 pm to 12 am CALL 68159100Try the limitededition agrave la carte menu that includes dishes such as auspicious golden treasure pocketsAT Hakkasan 206 Krystal Waterfield Road Bandra West TILL February 9 12 pm to 4 pm 7 pm to 1 amCALL 61378005Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates