First Nations designer Dr Grace Lillian on how she perceives textiles and identity

Our histories and cultures are very different but we are asking some similar questionsrdquo says renowned First Nations designer Dr Grace Lillian Lee From growing up in Far North Queensland to being the first Indigenous Australian to independently present a couture collection during Paris Couture Fashion Week Dr Leersquos illustrious journey finally led her to Mumbai last weekDr Grace Lillian Lee at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu SangrahalayaExcerpts from the interviewIt is believed that an artistrsquos sensibilities are anchored in their childhood Can you take us back to what cultural influences surrounded you growing upDr Grace Lillian Lee GLL I grew up in Cairns in Far North Queensland in a very creative household My father was an artist and maker and my mother had a wonderful sense of style My ancestry connects me to Europe China and importantly to my Torres Strait Islander heritage I am a descendant of the Miriam Mer people of the Eastern Islands of the Torres StraitAs I grew older reconnecting more deeply with that lineage transformed my creative practice My sensibility comes from this meeting point family culture colour fashion making with the hands and the tropical environment of Far North QueenslandFor someone viewing your designs for the first time can you give us an overview of the techniques elements and their cultural significanceGLL At the heart of my practice is a traditional Torres Strait Islander weaving technique that I learnt from my mentor Dr Uncle Ken Thaiday Snr a highly respected Meriam Mer artist and Elder The technique is often referred to as grasshopper weaving Traditionally it uses natural materials but I began translating the technique into contemporary materials such as cotton webbing and fabricDr Leersquos works take inspiration from elements of the natural worldI build and repeat woven forms to create sculptural pieces that sit on around and sometimes extend beyond the body There is often a sense of movement in them and the forms can resemble flowers plants armour or other elements of the natural worldHave any of the Indian indigenous design traditions piqued your interest during this visitGLL What strikes me in India is the extraordinary relationship between material place community and identity There is such depth in the textile and craft traditions here and you can see how knowledge is carried through generations through the hands of makersThe Torres Strait Islands are a group of islands located off Cape York the northern tip of AustraliaOf course our cultures and our cultural protocols are distinct and it is important not to collapse Indigenous cultures into one experience But there are beautiful points of connection respect for ancestral knowledge relationships with land and environment the significance of pattern and material and the understanding that an object can carry much more than its physical formA significant part of your work is generating interest in the next generation What are the tallest hurdles in the way and how can we overcome themGLL One of the biggest challenges is creating genuine pathways rather than simply moments of visibility Young creatives need mentorship education infrastructure investment and opportunities to build sustainable careers Someone took the time to share knowledge with me and I have a responsibility to create opportunities for othersThe islands have been inhabited for at least 2500 years The population as of 2021 was 4124Another major issue is the protection of indigenous cultural and intellectual property Cultural knowledge and designs are not simply aesthetic resources available for anybody to use They come with custodianship responsibilities and protocols We need stronger systems that ensure communities retain agency over their cultural knowledge and benefit from its useI donrsquot want the next generation to simply reproduce what we have done I want them to have the confidence cultural grounding and resources to take it somewhere we havenrsquot imagined yetYoursquove shared your knowledge with this city over the last week Was there something that the city taught you in returnGLL What I have appreciated in Mumbai is the curiosity and generosity around conversations about culture making and identity Being in a place with such rich and layered histories of textiles craftsmanship and design has also reminded me of the power of the handmade In a digital world there is something profound about knowledge that still travels from hand to handThose conversations have been incredibly valuable I will leave Mumbai inspired by the possibilities of greater exchange between our communities not simply exchanging objects or aesthetics but exchanging knowledge experiences and ways of thinkingLog on to gracelillianleecom