When we ask Mogan Rodrigues, 39, a resident of Uttan Village, how long it hasbeen since his family settled there, he chuckles and says, "I am 500 years old." Further through our conversation, we realise how entwined his identity is with the space and his profession as a tour guide.

"People come to this part of Mumbai as day picnickers, but they haven't seen the culture of one of the last remaining bastions of the East Indian community," he says. The area that he is referring to, is Dharavi Island that comprises six villages — Dongri, Uttan, Pali, Chowk, Gorai and Manori.