Begum Akhtar's Bhima connection

Fish ponds fantasy folklore and music account for the beauty of Bhimtal a virgin little land waiting to be explored by holidayers who crave calmWas sailing in a gorgeous gondola and now Im going back in the land of CocaCola No offence to Bob Dylan but after a trip to the serene waters of Bhimtal bumblebees and woodpeckers are sure to hammer such lyrics into your skull About 22 km from Nainital Bhimtal is an unruffled settlement in the state of Uttarakhand Legend has it that Bhima the macewielding Pandava of the Mahabharata struck the land with his mace during his banishment and thus created the Bhimtal Lake Today unlike its more popular cousin Nainital that teems with tourists in monkeycaps and mufflers on a photofrenzy during peak season Bhimtal is an apt place for those who want to experience tranquility and enjoy fishing nature walks and stargazing Tourists dress up in Kumaoni costumesLake PlacidAfter an eighthour train journey on the Ranikhet Express we arrived at Kathgodam station early in the morning From the station it is a halfhour cab drive to Fishermens Lodge a delightful pink and pastel stone building that would house us for the rest of the trip A white deck strewn with pinkcushioned chairs potted azaleas and lanterns with a terrific view of the lake greeted us Bunty a remarkable host and an amateur singer poet wine connoisseur and philosopher all rolled into one runs this more or less European bedandbreakfast place During his trips to Ireland the man stayed at some homely and hospitable places and soon enough was inspired to set up this 12room lakefacing lodge Birds and butterflies populate BhimtalBreakfast gossipThe food is a wholesome experience of Kumaoni and Continental dishes We had a sumptuous breakfast of sausages fried tomatoes potatoes and baked beans in the dining area The lodge doesnt encourage room service since the idea is to break bread in pleasant company So when dining one has to carry not only a big appetite but also an enthusiasm for small talk Conversations with the guests centred around a variety of topics and by the time everybody polished off their masala eggs I knew all the secrets about a certain Bollywood megastars liaisons during his heydays Bhimtal Lake is as picturesque as more popular cousin NainitalChasing butterfliesWe broke off for a walk The photographer had a field day capturing butterflies Watching a grownup man chase butterflies made me chuckle As Picasso once said Youth has no age The urge to chase butterflies comes overBy lunchtime we were back at the lodge An appetising continental spread awaited us The broccoli celery and oregano we saw the gardener tenderly water in the morning was being served for lunch I couldnt find a better example of what city eateries call fresh garden salad Chef Mukesh Upadhyay whipped up a delectable combination of Saut ed Vegetables Olio Penne Pasta and Thyme Honey Mustard Chicken to go along Costume dramaThe next trip on our itinerary was Naukuchia Tal a tiny lake 6 km away from the lodge The lake had its usual attractions tourists dressing up in Kumaoni costumes and posing for the camera children yelping and haggling with parents for boat rides and newlymarried grooms oozing with bravado showing off their equestrian skills on puny ponies Boating at Naukuchia TalThe sour note though was struck by unsightly gutkha packets that littered the surroundings Bizarrely the rubbish was of only one particular brand and we wondered if it was possible that some aggressive tobacco company chose to forcefeed all the tourists visiting this otherwise unsoiled place A definite possibility in this competitive era We couldnt help but ask Why is it that we pack every possible useless item in our holiday bags but conveniently leave our civic sense behind Bhimaswara Mahadev Mandir 6 km from the lodgeWhile Naukuchia Tal was a bit of a disappointment the trip next day to Saat Tal 6 km away from the Fishermens Lodge was a pleasant surprise The lake remains totally untouched by loud holidaymakers and is the best place to go fishing With a young guest to keep us company we cast our lines and anglers to start psychological warfare with the mahasirs rahus and silver carps The evenings spent at Bhimtal ended with Bunty taking centrestage Whether at his cottage at Jungalia Gaon or back at the lodge the evenings were dedicated to masters like 17th century poet Goya Farida Khannum and Begum Akhtar When he is not playing his own collection the man can croon till the wee hours until an enchanting sunrise breaks the spellThe weekend was like visiting an old friend reminding us of the numerous summer vacations when returned home from boarding school Whos luring whom A young angler at Saat TalCome Monday it was back to Delhi I could sing any song in my head but deep down I knew a true traveller never loathes his own country My city with its hustlebustle and heat embraced me like a lover who had never leftGo where legend and lakes beckonTrain The Ranikhet Express goes from Delhi to Kathgodam Its a halfhour drive to Bhimtal from there Road A 300 km drive from DelhiAir The nearest airport is located at Pantnagar 71 km from Nainitalu00a0DIGRESS gtgtBhimeshwara Mahadev Temple This 17th century temple is a 10minute walk from Fishermens Lodge Its a good place to listen to folklore from locals who visit for worshipu00a0u00a0gtgtSaat Tal An untouched lake ideal for anglers 6 km from Bhimtal Carry Ernest Hemingways The Old Man and the Sea cast your line and spend a lazy afternoon trying to trick the fish into catching your baitu00a0u00a0u00a0gtgtJungalia Gaon lies 12 km from Bhimtal You can cycle back to Bhimtal from here but keep your fingers on the brakes Rash motorists show up once in a while We suggest you carry a picnic basket and sip on wine till the stars start to twinkleu00a0u00a0gtgtNaukuchia Taal Hop on a boat and ask your boatman to take you to the middle of the lake Watch the ducks ignore the tourists and dont be shy to rap anyone who litters on their knuckles u00a0STAY Fishermens Lodge Mandir Marg is a small but delightful boutique hotel on Bhimtal Lake For reservationsMobile 91 0 9910162244u00a0 Land line 91 01141328410 Fax 91 011413284103Bhimtal factfile Besides being a winter stopover for transHimalayan birds Bhimtal Lake is also larger than the more touristheavy Naini Lake Situated at an altitude of 1370 metres Bhimtal came under British rule after the AngloNepalese war of 1814 when Nainital was declared the summer capital