Watering hole for aristocrats

To land in Milan during Fashion week and truffle season is a double whammy My fourth visit to Italy the land where high food and high design converge and I am a little overwhelmed Where to start A coffee and a tiramisu at the upscale patisserie Caffe Cova in the heart of Via Monte Napoleone Milanrsquos peerless highend retail style mile is as good a place as anyFounded in 1817 the delicatessen serves as a watering hole to Milanrsquos aristocratic ladies who lunch though the odd tourist like myself is not unusual The ambience at Cova reeks of understated luxury and I am surrounded by women carrying handbags that must have cost a minor fortune and are wearing watches that could pay off the debts of small nations Indeed it occupies a larger than life spot in the lives of the Milanese ldquoA wedding cake from Cova is not only considered prestigious and auspicious but almost mandatory in the upper echelons of Milanese Societyrdquo a local resident informs meOrchids and LeatherFrom the Cova to a front row seat at the Fendi Spring Summer 2015 show in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld Silvia Fendi and various members of the European glitterati and the international fashion press is a heady experienceSilvia Fendi and Karl LagerfeldInspired by the architecture of the Palazzo della Civilta Italiana in Rome which is now Fendirsquos headquarters the collection opens with supermodel Cara Delevingne showing off the orchid motif from the Fendi autumn winter collection on a vivid blue mini emblazoned with a print of the flower a striking leather orchid headpiece swooning from her neckFendi Spring Summer 2015 showThe detailing of this new collection which features leathercut orchid motifs fringed by suede and inlays of fur and embroidery bestow the clothes with a layered yet light appearance a feat almost impossible to carry off but magnificently achieved by the master that is LagerfeldAbove all for all its subliminal nods to the orchid its sophisticated sleight of hand artistry and its subtle internationalism this is a very wearable collectionWhatrsquos best of all is that unlike the tamasha that is India Fashion Week here itrsquos all business and post show the crowd streams out in to the bright afternoon to catch a bite and then on to the next show and the next Over the next few days Versace Etro and Gucci will all show their new lines to varying degrees of ecstasy and agonyTuscan internationalismldquoYou have to dine at Bicerdquo says my allknowing local friend ldquoItrsquos where celebs like Kate Moss and Catherine Deneuve have been spotted often togetherrdquo The flag bearer and foundation of the international network of Bice restaurants founded by an Italian housewife Beatrice Ruggeri Bice to her friends the restaurant is 90 years old and a bit of a legend in these parts It would have been Milanrsquos bestkept secret if it hadnrsquot been for the fact that in the Seventies the city emerged as the fashion capital of the world and an international celebrity clientele discovered and embraced the restaurantTruffle pasta at BiceOver truffle pasta beef escalope with porcini mushrooms and a robust Tuscan wine I scan the room for promised celebs but even though the women in their sixinch heels and their oversized glares look vaguely familiar I recognised no oneAh well the foodrsquos superstar enough here I console myself digging into another spoonful of the restaurantrsquos famous TiramisuAn iconic woman and her creationsAnother dyed in the Merino Milanese institution is 10 Corso Como the gallery bar lounge restaurant and boutique hotel launched by the legendary Fashionista Carla SozzaniSozzani who had been American Voguersquos editoratlarge for Italy has to her credit many achievements not least of which are introducing a slew of creative talent to mainstream fashion coverageCarla Sozzanirsquos 10 Corso ComoIn 1990 she created a universe that could reflect all her interests in design lifestyle fashion and food called 10 Corso ComoI go there for Sunday brunch and was so moved by the beauty of her vision that I almost swooned with delight A tropical dream forest like ambience where seated al fresco I order eggs and orange juice rubbing shoulders with some extremely stylish neighbours a boutique that looks like an altar to quirky individualistic style exquisite jewellery is showcased on packets of Basmati Rice for instance a book shop and a discreet boutique hotel called lsquo3 roomsrsquo upstairsSome women are known for their beauty some for their talent but a woman who is known for the discovery and creation of an area is a rare one indeedOver coffee I pay silent tribute to the genius of Carla SozzaniCathedrals for the modern travellerOn my last morning in Milan I visit the iconic Duomo known simply as the church of Milan the fourth most important cathedral of Europe after St Peterrsquos St Paul and the cathedral of SevilleI go there to pray of course but ever the hedonist know that in Milan there are other churches where I have bowed my head the churches of luxury food wine fashion and design for these are the modern travellerrsquos abiding cathedralsTomorrow itrsquos back to Mumbai and Mumbairsquos gracesEating in EatalyA hop skip and jump away from the rugged individualism and quirky boutique ambience of Corso Como is Eataly Founded by Oscar Farinetti it is a novel concept of highend grocery retail restaurants wine shops coffee bars and a proscenium for music that melds together all the needs of a connoisseur of good livingOscar Farinettirsquos EatalyLike Steve Jobs whose success was said to have been the anticipation of a customerrsquos needs even before he had realised them himself Farinetti too appears to have realised that people want to shop eat taste and enjoy each otherrsquos company in a stylish environment and his chain of unique grazing spots has become the Starbucks of the new generation