Last week, on Ashadhi Ekadashi (July 23), I attended Bolava Vitthal, with abhangs — Maharashtrian devotional poetry sung in praise of Lord Vitthal — sung by Rahul Deshpande, Anand Bhate, Jayateerth Mevundi and Kaushiki Chakraborty. Bolava Vitthal, organised by Pancham Nishad's Shashi Vyas, at Shanmukhananda Hall, is an old family tradition. It was started when my father, S Rammohan, was alive, and has continued over the years.

Every year, on Ashadhi Ekadashi, I especially remember my late father. Papa was a sweet, gentle man, and one day he told me he would like to go on the Pandharpur wari. He was then 77, and I said, 'chalo, I'll take you'. Over a million pilgrims make the annual wari, a 16 (or 21) day pilgrimage, traditionally from Alandi to Pandharpur, covering about 225 km on foot. The wari honours bhakti saint-poets and devotees of Lord Vitthal, including Dnyaneshwar, who lived in Alandi in the 13th century, and Tukaram, a 17th century shudra trader from Dehu. Over 700 years later, their devotees carry their padukas (footwear/footprints) in palkhis (palanquins) from their shrines to Lord Vitthal's temple in Pandharpur, so their pilgrimages can continue.
So, off we went, Papa and I, in 2002. We bussed it from Pune to Alandi, and started walking at 4 am with the other varkaris. The varkaris, devotees who regularly go on this pilgrimage, are dressed in a simple dhoti-kurta or sari, carrying nothing but faith; perhaps a cloth jhola at most.