We spent an afternoon watching Hollywood’s big gun Patti Dubrof and celebrity makeup artist Bianca Louzado work their magic to create a trio of looks perfect for this festive season. Watch and learn
Glass Finish; Come on, Barbie! and Go Glam. Pics/Aishwarya Deodhar
Last weekend, Sunday mid-day got exclusive front-row access to Masters of Makeup where globetrotting beauty enthusiast and Hollywood’s favourite makeup artist, Pati Dubroff ,recreated some of her most iconic looks, including those from the recent Barbie Press tour. The two-day masterclass saw sessions from industry insiders, including bridal and celebrity makeup artist Bianca Louzado, Bollywood hairstylist Amit Thakur, and prosthetic artiste and character designer, Preetisheel Singh D’souza.
We came back a few shades wiser, equipped with hacks on how to create looks for the upcoming season.
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Pati Dubroff and Bianca Louzado
THE LOOK
Glass Finish
Perfect for: Festive occasions, weddings
By: Bianca Louzado on Rubal Shekhawat
Prep your skin by cleaning it with micellar water and a cotton pad. Focus on the undereye area and the waterline using a Q-tip. Wipe the eyelids with a tissue, and pat dry.
Place undereye patches, and apply a cold sheet and lip mask for 10 to 15 minutes.
Start the makeup by applying a moisturiser bolstered with sunscreen right upto the decolletage, focusing on the neckline and the area that remains exposed,
especially if you are going to be outdoors.
Follow with a matte foundation and a light gold illuminator. Dot it on the high cheek bone and blend well using a blender/sponge.
Apply a good quality moisturiser and face radiance oil, and lock it in with a serum. Then, primer on whole face, a good quality night repair undereye cream and a
trusted lip balm.
Dab concealer lightly such that it does not crease on the eyelids and gently blend it. Using a nude palette of eye shadows, lift the eye and apply a base shade in light touches, going around the circle and down. Top it with an eye shadow that has tones of gold, pink and brown to instantly pop the eyelid.
Use fake lashes for drama; Use eye patches and prep the neck; Fill in the brows; Flick the eyeliner; Use concealer; Apply blush; Finish it off with setting spray
Place a dot of a highlighter above the eyelashes and blend well.
Stick on fake lashes using a strong lash glue.
For the waterline, using a thin brush, apply a gel liner, loosening it with a makeup mixing liquid. Stretch the eyelid in the upward direction and make a thin
brown line.
With a blender brush and blend in from the outer to the inner corner. Wipe undereye with micellar water.
Use a good face primer and blend with a blender brush.
Apply the best quality moisturiser, followed by base foundation.
Concealer can be applied from the inner corner of the under eye, in fine strokes in an upward direction. Apply gently round the nose and corner of the lips.
Blend the foundation with a brush. Then mix a highlighter and foundation, apply on face in dots and blend with a beauty blender, soaked in ice (squeeze and dab on a tissue before use).
Apply silicon-base loose powder from the inside to the outside.
Add two shades of cream blush for a richer look; dab gently with a blender. Press on translucent powder and keep blending with a dual fibre brush.
Brush eyebrows, and fill in gaps.
Add dull gold eyeliner and blend with a soft brush for a sultry look.
Use a bronzer and highlighter on the cheekbones with a brush.
Mix golden and white and keep polishing till well blended.
Add a rosy glow for a gentle bridal flush.
Line the lips with a terracotta lip colour and blend with lip brush. Use a brush and fill the insides with a rosewood shade. Then finish with a gloss bomb.
Add a flick of eyeliner with a brown pencil.
Finish the look with a setting spray and seal the glow with a beauty blender.
THE LOOK
Come on Barbie!
Perfect for: Girl’s night out
By: Pati Dubroff on Malvika Sitlani
Clean your face with micellar water; apply undereye caffeine hydrogel patches to reduce puffiness.
Prep the skin with a good quality moisturiser and lip mask. If you have an unexpected pimple or zit, use a translucent pimple patch. Tame brow hair by combing them in place with a brow gel wand.
Apply moisturiser on the perimeter of the face and the browbone. Use primer on your T-zone; dabbing with fingers. Apply eye cream under the eye and outer corners.
Apply a foundation shade that works best for your skin tone. Start from the side of the nose and move to the sides of the face using outward strokes. Use a tinted corrector under the eye and blend with a beauty blender.
Use concealer on the lower pocket corners of the mouth to brighten up dark corners if any.
Use a cream blush (peach and/or pink) on the apple of the cheek and blend.
Curl the lashes using a lash curler. Using a brown eyebrow pen, fill in the brows if they are scarce.
Under eye patches; micro current prep; Serum prep; Apply foundation; Line the lids; Apply blush on apple of cheek; Curl lashes; Peach-pink eyeshadow palette; Choose light pink for lips
Using a good quality eyeliner pen, shape the eyelid to structure the eye. Use a lilac hue eye pencil close to the lash line and lighten it with a brush.
Add peachy eyeshadow and work on the crease of the eye; add another nude shade, followed by peach eyeshadow again, then a pink cream shade and some coco eyeshadow.
Blend these using deft strokes for the perfect shade. The Barbie look isn’t just about being all-pink; it is a sensible blend of various shades from the pink family.
Under the eye, use a neutral shade on the bone and dab lightly with your finger. Add slight loose powder under the eye.
Line your lashes with mascara, getting as close to the roots as you can.
Use a bomb highlighter above the cheekbones/on the high point of the cheek.
Use pink liquid lipstick, dab it with a tissue, and shape it with a pencil (never on dry lips) and voila, you are done!
THE LOOK
Go Glam
Perfect for: Celebratory dinners
By: Pati Dubroff on Waluscha DeSousa
Start with a serum; then a microcurrent and a kansa wand for natural, meaningful contouring.
Continue with a mattifying primer under the eye, on the chin, in the pocket of the nose and around the corners of the mouth.
Waluscha DeSousa. Pics/Aishwarya Deodhar
Brush the brows for a fluttery stroke; fill with a brow pencil.
Check the shade of the blush on the back of the hand. Brush from the inside of the apple of your cheeks toward the outside.
Use a base shade pencil on the eyelid; work on it till you get a perfect base.
Use a tan eye pencil underneath the crease area and leave space on the side. Line the eye and blend it all in.
Apply a dot of the illuminator on the inner eye.
Use a highlighter pencil and bone-tone eyeshadow that acts like a setting powder. You can use a camel eyeshadow for longevity to seal the colour.
Use metal gua sha to contour; Brush the blush from inside of the apple of cheek outwards; Use a glowy pink lip shade
Add a pop of light gold highlighter on top of the eyeshadow. Clean the inner corner of your eye.
Use a dark brown liquid liner to draw a thin line. Add mascara on the lashes.
Brighten the side of the nose and any place that needs help with concealer.
Use a powder bronzer, and move lightly across the cheek and forehead; this acts like a mild contourer.
Put rouge on top of the cheeks and slightly on the corner of the eyes.
Add a highlighter on the cheekbone.
Clean lips with micellar water; apply a tinted balm, use a lip contour pencil to line them and soften the edges with a brush. Fill in the lips with a glowy pink shade.
Duboff shares a secret: apply Skin Story balm on the centre of the lips, eyelid and the tip of the nose—it acts like a chef’s kiss at the end.
Different strokes for different folks
. Don’t contour if your face doesn’t need contouring.
. Don’t use a setting spray or strip eyelashes if you aren’t looking for a formal, dramatic look.
. When applying body makeup, be careful; you could soil the dress.
. Always conduct swab tests in natural light
Pack it clean
. Don't break your back carrying a lot of makeup around,” says Dubroff, adding, “Keep it grounded and centred. Take care of yourself; India is where I learnt this. In fact, I even clear the space and sage the room before starting work and always carry crystals in my pocket,” she smiles.
. Keep your makeup kit clean. Use see-through pouches to keep items organised, and segregate based on looks.
. Keep a separate pouch for skincare; skin tools; foundation, brushes and one of the extras (just in case).
Skin prep using tools
Dubroff calls it servicing of a race car before a race. “Cold tools are your friend while prepping and use upward strokes always. If you have the time, do more skin prep with tools, it oxygenates and stimulates the skin. Don’t do this if you have had fillers. Facial dermaplaning is a good way to remove the top layer of skin—and small hairs; do it with a guard on and your hair won’t grow back thick.”
Tools to use: Gua Sha, ReFa, Microcurrent devices, Guasha with rollers
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