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A rustic Navroze

The Parsi New Year menu at Gallops celebrates rural cuisine, and our tastebuds are happy about it

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Cawas ni kolmi na kebab; aflatoon akuri; suran na kebab and bheja kebab. Pics/Ashish Raje

Cawas ni kolmi na kebab; aflatoon akuri; suran na kebab and bheja kebab. Pics/Ashish Raje

She neatly slices the boi (fish) with a knife and fork before serving it on our plate. There is kindness mixed with nostalgia in the voice of Jasmine Singh, partner at Gallops and daughter of late Paeterasp Patel, income tax consultant and financial advisor, when she explains how the white mullet fish is specially sourced from the coastal town of Udvada where it is best bred. Unlike most fish, this one has a distinct sweetness to it. The masala smeared on it acts only as a sidekick.

Singh and her business partner's son, chef Yajush Malik, have spent the last many days curating a compelling menu with dishes from Singh's mother Dolly Patel's kitchen in Khareghat Colony. Growing up there, her Sundays were all about eating homemade curry chawal and sipping Dukes' Raspberry soda. Her mother's bheja nu kebab makes an entry on the menu too. Here, Patel has lathered the bheja (goat brains) with the parsi green chutney, rolled it into balls and fried it.

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