This writer's childhood Sunday lunch memories are filled with the heady aroma of kacche gosht ki biryani on dum. The fragrant rice and meat preparation still holds a special place in the heart. And, no matter how flawless the biryani is, it is incomplete without the humble accompaniment—the dahi-kachumbar or raita. The finely chopped onion, tomatoes and cucumber mixed with salt and beaten curd made the dreamy meal unique. We liked ours with slivers of green chilli. Later in life, I learnt of the many versions of the raita. In the north of India, I'm told, beaten curd is tempered with minced garlic and mustard seeds (rai), hence the name raita. Down south, they call it pachadi (that which is beaten or pounded). There are other adaptations where fruits like pineapple and pomegranate, or boondi from the local halwai is mixed with curd—often tempered with mustard and curry leaves or simply dusted with roasted, ground zeera and chaat masala.

The Indian regional thali carries a spectrum of flavours, but a special place is always reserved for chutneys and relishes. Often, freshly made, liberally spiced and tempered, and served hot or cold, these form an integral part of every Indian meal.