Over the last few decades, the title of maharaj has lost its flavour, though the cooking done by them continues to retain it. When old Mumbai homes enjoyed fuller families, they also enjoyed the services of a full-time maharaj. He ran the kitchen. As food historian and Padma Shri recipient, Pushpesh Pant, says, "He was a sovereign of his domain. The word 'maharaj' literally translates as great king. This title was obviously given to the professional family cooks to flatter them and retain them."

As families started to downsize, so did the duties of the maharaj. "The extended joint families are extinct and even large families can't afford a retainer of this kind," says Pant. "Today, there is no question of having a live-in maharaj. Eating habits, too, have changed and ritual purity or traditional recipes aren't a priority. It's not surprising that many a maharaj has taken to freelancing."