On every trip to Rajkot over the last three decades, my first food stop has always been a street vendor who makes bread katka (pieces). Take it from a Mumbaikar who loves her chaat delicacies, this offering is unique: chunky bread pieces are slathered in chutneys, topped with masala peanuts, and finished with a generous sprinkle of nylon sev. Bites are alternated with wiping hot tears brought on by the famous green chutney made of peanuts, lemon peels, asafoetida and green chillies; best paired with chips.  There was no leaving out the fafda jalebi, bhungda batata (a fiery potato gravy served with fryums), dabeli, and of course, hand-churned ice creams and sweet milkshakes. The last visit in November, however, was different. Our gastronomic excursion began with the city’s first outpost of Barista cafe chain. A cousin who grew up in Rajkot, but has spent the better part of her life abroad, summed it up perfectly: “Can’t believe we are in Rajkot!” Overlooking freshly manicured gardens, the vibe reflects change.