Rohhaan Gawde's entry into mycology happened by chance when he landed a job with a commercial firm that provided training to mushroom growers. This was 15 years ago when a small section of nature enthusiasts, manufacturers and chefs in Mumbai were waking up to the fascinating world of fungi. "Technically, I was an outlier because I hadn't studied the species formally, but I rode the wave. I was at the right place at the right time," he says. The interest prompted Khar-based Gawde to take up a project at the Pune Agricultural University, where he learnt the basics and began working closely with local farms. In 2015, he went solo and launched The Mushroom Company, a consultancy that specialises in premium varieties of mushroom.

Gawde, 38, is now one of Mumbai's largest mushroom vendors, supplying gourmet varieties like shiitake, oyster, and milky buttons to leading hospitality establishments and retail chains. Like a scout, he goes foraging every couple of months with the help of local experts. His recent project took him to a farm in Imphal, where farmers grow fresh shiitake. "Mushrooms can sprout anywhere as long as the conditions are favourable. They are climate-smart plants." Having said that, cultivating these varieties is a challenge because a slight change in humidity and temperature can affect production. Which is why he has set up Rohini Farms, a state-of-the-art facility in Lonavla. "I realised that if I have to supply in bulk, I will need a dank chamber where the temperature can be regulated. I cannot depend on seasonality."