Stories that stones tell

Madam its so quiet in that temple you will hear a pin drop Jaikanth the restaurant manager at our Chikmagalur hotel assured us as we savoured a light Malnad breakfast the regional cuisine of the slopes of Karnatakas Western Ghats Moments later we were on our way for a crash course in stone architecture The temple he was referring to was in a sleepy village called Belavadi 30 km away and our first stop on a threehalt day tripAs we drove down the ChikmagalurJavagal highway the terrain reminded us of grainy frames from TVbinging on RK Narayans Malgudi Days We imagined Swami and his friends knocking the ball over our heads while we sped past quaint hamlets paddy fields and a topography that our geologyloving travelling companion reasoned to be because it has a robust groundwater tableThe Hoysala emblem in Chennakeshava temple features a mythical warrior Sala fighting with a tigerLess is moreThirty minutes later our driver pulled over from the main road and we came facetoface with the Veera Narayana Temple that rises like a stone citadel in the middle of a nondescript settlement It was built in the trikuta threeshrined style in AD 1200 by King Veera Ballala II using soapstone as its chief material Belavadi according to legend was the site where Pandava Bheema killed the demon Bakasura and thus saved the village Slowly we soaked in the detailing of this magnificent albeit lesserknown site And Jaikanth was rightLatheturned pillars at Belavadirsquos Veer Narayana templeThe silence made the experience mesmeric From its lintels at the entrance to the wall reliefs on its parapets the pillarlined passage that connected both halls and finally the temperaturecooled floor that made for the ideal space to gaze at this gem in the middle of nowhere we were in awe Then in a flash the scene changed Three cars and a van filled with devotees accompanied by the resident priest spilled into the sanctum sanctorum of the temple for the Saturday darshan We had our version too and were thrilled with the morning coup minus the bustleThe intricate craftsmanship at Halebids Hoysaleshwara temple is a salute to high level of skill by the empires artisans PicsFiona FernandezStone operaNext we headed to Halebid or Halebidu which is 12 km away The scene here was a contrast queues sprawling lawns filled with picnicking families a poorlyexecuted ASI Archaeological Survey of India museum and even a couple posing for their preshaadi portfolio The Hoysaleshwara temple is the bigticket draw it was built in AD 1121 during the reign of Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleshwara Historians and restorers swear that this proposed UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the finest examples of South Asian stone architectureAs we drew closer to the Shiva temples facades we noticed that several sculptures displayed a 3D imagery The extensive reliefs that include sensuous apsaras gods and goddesses from the great epics guardian lions and elephants including a mammoth dancing Ganesha at the entrance reminded us of some of the facades we had spotted in faroff Angkor Watt in Cambodia Another key feature were the Nandi mandapas however we couldnt miss the unaesthetic patchup job by ASI to recreate some pillars that had been damaged due to battle time and weatherCapital gainsBy now we wondered what could possibly be in store at our last halt Belur or Beluru a 17kmdrive from Halebid especially since we had already witnessed such finesse and craftsmanship This first capital of the Hoysalas was home to the Chennakeshava temple complex we spotted the striking faccedilade as we drove into the temple town Located inside a rectangular complex it took 103 years to complete AD 1220 But we were in for a shock Something didnt seem right when we craned our neck while braving the afternoon sun for a longer scan of its richly carved exteriors As it turned out its main gopura at the entrance was layered with multiple coats of yellow paint We wondered why this visual aberration was given the nod by ASI the designated protectors of heritage monuments in IndiaShaking off the disappointment the sights inside this Vishnu temple took our mind off particularly its symmetrical miniature gopuras dancing apsaras musicians and scenes from daily life as well as episodic panels from the Ramayana and Mahabharata Inside the main space we spotted the massive navaranga platform where devadasis would dance here the oohs and aahs from a group nearby merged with the chants of an ongoing puja causing a clash of echoes sounds that are atypical to a visit to any popular temple in IndiaAbove us the ceilings had their own stories to tell from its hollow domes to the intricately carved figurines that watched over us every inch of artistry was a silent tribute to the hundreds of hands that built this grand celebration in stone Little wonder that the idiom etched in stone has a million connotations We sure discovered a few moreFACT FILEBEST TIME Now till mid MarchWHERE TO STAY Chikmagalur is the closest town Its your best bet for a range of stay options from budget hotels and homestays to luxurious indulgent spaces set in plantations overlooking the Western Ghats of Karnataka All three temple sites are well connected by good roads from hereNEAREST AIRPORT Mangalore 152 km though the nearly fivehour drive from Bangalore 270 km is the better option due to scenic smooth roads via NH75 NEAREST RAILWAY STATION Chikmagalur has a railway station that was opened in 2013 with limited connectivity Hassan 60 km and Kadur 40 km are the nearest important rail headsCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates