Tasting a lesson from failure

In 2017 when this writer had met chef Floyd Cardoz in Mumbai he said Today restaurants are not only about serving great food but also making the entire experience fun and accessible The reason many Americans dont go to Indian restaurants is because they dont want to look stupid asking for terms they dont understand They need a connection and you have to find thatCardoz had been able to build this connect in the heart of Soho New York with baconcheddar kulcha pork vindaloo and riffs on Indian street eats However the success was shortlived with news coming in that the Cardozled The Bombay Bread Bar TBBB would shutter Cardoz replaced Paowalla with TBBB in early 2018 Designed by director Wes Andersons set decorator Kris Moran the restaurant was envisioned as casual fun and vibrant avatar of its predecessor which opened in 2016 and heralded the chefs return to cooking Indian food in New York following the success of Tabla 19982010TBBB however failed to combat the current challenges that NYC restaurateurs face including a crippling hike in minimum wages In an interview with Grub Street the chef now Vice PresidentmdashCulinary for Estiatorio Milos chain of Greek seafood restaurants said I still love the cuisine I still love everything about it but if it was just going to limp along whats the pointCloser home Mumbais FampB scene is facing its own challenges hit by the impact of GST a growing disconnect with millennials and the constant desire to eat something newSuccessful restaurateurs and familiar faces on Mumbais FampB scene AD Singh and Abhayraj Kohli gather the courage to discuss lessons from failureMillenial idea of Goa is pulsating party but I was thinking relaxed hippieAD SinghLady Baga beach shackthemed restaurant Lower Parel Opened December 2017 Shuttered February 2019Lady Baga was supposed to offer the classic beach shack experience A Delhi import from restaurateur AD Singhs Olive Group stable it moved into Kamala Mills in Lower Parel Singh chose the location for its large walkins He roped in chef Aloysius DSilva of Villa Vandre fame to rustle up Goan fare The bar featured chorizoinfused vodka and other innovations It seemed like we had all the right pieces Singh tells middayFour days after Lady Baga got its liquor licence a fire broke out at Kamala Mills claiming 14 lives and leaving most businesses in the compound crippled It was the biggest tragedy I had seen in 30 years The aftermath was horrible There was a backlash from the authorities the media was frenzied and there was a general scare among the public The footfalls crashed Singh hoped for business to pick up but learnt gradually that it was tough to change perceptions in the wake of a tragedy After the fire Kamala Mills carried the least risk in terms of fire because of stringent and regular checks that were being conducted But walkins remained weak through that year he saysWhile the fire proved a dampener the restobars susegaad vibe with cane chairs 80s pop music and kitschy signs didnt entice todays diners The Goan beach shacks of my time were different from what they are today I wanted to portray the hippie culture of the 60s and all it stood formdashliberty equality and peace But millennials who are a large part of walkins at Kamala Mills see Goa as a place to party They didnt connect with my vision he admitsSo when a Swedish furniture giant looking to open in the space offered a buyout Singh took it Working with a sinking restaurant helps you assess the industry and business deeply Usually when you shut a restaurant you get nothing This offer helped cut our losses Lady Bagas second outing in Mumbai is still on the cards It will be a different location This time I will also take a harder look at the vibe and make it more of a party place Singh hopesNotes from a debacle Eye on millennials Vibe is criticalMumbai is accustomed to Malvani not authentic GoanAbhayraj KohliHouse of Lloyd Goanrestaurant Juhu Opened June 2018 Shuttered August 2019When Abhayraj Kohli decided to replace the shortlived Porto amp Poie in Juhu with another Goan restaurant that he called House of Lloyd he was facing no apprehension We had barely tested the waters says the restaurant partner Helmed by chef Lloyd Braganza and wife Nerissa owners of the original brand in Goa the restaurant sourced its masalas fresh poee and seafood from the sunshine state to offer an authentic experienceThough celebrated when launched over the month House of Lloyd struggled to stay afloat Stereotypes about regional cuisine still exist We had an interesting vegetarian menu but we lost out on nonmeat eaters because everyone associates Goan food with fish and pork Several nonvegetarian diners stay away from seafood in the rains so the seasonal slump affected us too he saysThe withdrawal of input tax credit under GST for restaurants increased the restaurants costs by eight per cent On the contrary the niche offering failed to rope in repeat diners unlike Grandmamas Cafeacute a cafe chain Kohli owns and runs A multicuisine restaurant offers more variety Its tough to find repeat clientele for a regional restaurant The palate of todays diners seems more used to Malvani food rather than authentic Goan We also realised they preferred small plates over full portions of curries and riceKohli tried to reinvent the menu by including modern Goan fare but the closure of Juhu Tara Road bridge in June this year was the final nail in the coffin The numbers dipped by 40 per cent There was little point in keeping it goingKohli doesnt dismiss the idea of opening another regional restaurant in future but only when the market is ripe It will take a couple of years before Mumbai is ready to regularly frequent a specialty regional cuisine eatery than think its a fad For now he is planning a VFM restobar with Lebanese Asian and Indian fare in the same space where House of Lloyd stood Well probably add herbal sheesha to the menu if we manage the permissions Meanwhile those who enpoyed Lloyds eats can lookout for a few specials on Grandmamas Cafeacutes menu that Kohli has addedNotes from a debacle Serve small plates Approach niche cuisine with careCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates