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The aam admi's Mughal feast

A food historian goes beyond the tables of badshahs and sahibs to decode what the common man ate in the Mughal and post-Mughal colonial India. And it's not starkly different from what we eat today

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Shubra Chatterji channeled her research into Mughlai food for commoners for a recent talk at a food conference. Pic/ Ashish Raje

Shubra Chatterji channeled her research into Mughlai food for commoners for a recent talk at a food conference. Pic/ Ashish Raje

When we think Mughlai food, we think rich eats ranging from galouti kebabs to biryani and korma. Television producer, director, writer, and founder of food blog Historywali, Shubra Chatterji travelled the length and breadth of the country, shooting people in their homes to trace and document the food habits of people during the Mughal era.

"If you eat a particular food, it says something about where you come from, your ancestry, who you are. The Mughal period spanned 1530 to 1857, with the last 100 years being considered as the post-Mughal era, after the emergence of the East India Company, along with the Dutch, Portugese and French colonists. Over the next couple of centuries, a lot of new foods came to India, including potato, tomato and chilli, which are now a staple in Indian homes," says Chatterji, adding, "This was also a period when documentation was on a high due to what was recorded as part of court documentation."

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