Lingerie queen bee Soozie Jenkinson: A bra is tailoring for the bust

Soozie JenkinsonIt should come as no surprise that Soozie Jenkinson lead lady who heads design for lingerie swim and active at global apparel retailer Marks and Spencerrsquos MampS has an enviable personal wardrobe The Londonbased designer has evening dresses from the 1920s and lsquo30s as well as vintage underwear pieces that can be styled with these outfits Describing herself as ldquoa little bit lingerie obsessiverdquo her collection of black bras alone extends to well over a hundred So when we hear that Jenkinson 48 will be in Mumbai this Wednesday as MampS celebrates 90 years since it first launched itrsquos lingerie line we are all earsJenkinson first flirted with lingerie in 1994 when she began freelancing for MampS She had a fashion degree from Kingston University London and had been designing clothes since childhood but lingerie was still new territory ldquoWhile I stepped into the world of lingerie and instantly fell in love with the product it was a steep and fast learning curverdquo she says The ldquosofter siderdquo to lingerie mdash camisoles slips sleepwear mdash were easier than the ldquotechnicallycomplexrdquo bra that demanded more work with ldquointimate aspectsrdquo Surely Jenkinson is being modest for in 1998 she was made the head of lingerie designA corsolette from 1971Looking back Jenkinson says nothing can be more different about the world of lingerie then and now ldquoTwenty years ago it was just five colours mdash black white cream navy and red Fast forward to now and the colour and fashionability is so different Lingerie is now a dominant part of the womanrsquos wardrobe and an important consideration of her dress mdash as good as an accessoryrdquo she explains Now bras come in 44 sizes with cups going from A to G and with 26 components in the average braSoozie Jenkinson says that the next bra revolution is with two opposed trends Athleisure above and the ldquosofter siderdquo to lingerie meant for layering such as bralets belowPicsMarks amp SpencerKeeping up with the times and innovating designs means Jenkinson is continuously talking to women right from customers to gal pals and understanding what works and what doesnrsquot Imagine VPLs Visible Panty Lines tiresome strapless bras that refuse to stay where they are supposed to and nip shows mdash the very things some of us women debate and resolve over lunch and drinks Jenkinsonrsquos taxi rides from her office in Waterside House stir up lingerie conversations as do dinners with friends ldquoFriends often talk to me about their intimate desires on lingerie and are even keen to show me their personal underwearrdquo she says It was one such revelation by a friend who owned a vintage bralet that she had preserved for the last 15 years that led Jenkinson to introduce bralets into the MampS collection The concerns that most customers and friends have a back as smooth as the front of the bra larger cup sizes and briefs that donrsquot dig into the derriereFor the lingerie specialist it is also necessary to keep an eye on clothing and fashion trends and well evolution the average cup size is now a 36CD a couple of sizes higher than what it was 20 years ago ldquoSince leggings are so fashionable now mdash today for instance I am wearing leggings and a lace blouse to work mdash the need for noVPL knickers has increasedrdquo says Jenkinson adding that she cannot dream of getting into skinny nonstretch jeans ever again ldquoWomen are going in for lingerie that is workable Globally there is a move towards more activity so athleisure is here to stay However simultaneously there is also the reverse trend in which women are moving towards softer pieces like bralets and the reemergence of the lingerie layering style We want a bit more of lingerie to be seen on usrdquoA utility bra from 1941We canrsquot help but wonder what Jenkinson would think are the essentials for any lingerie wardrobe considering her personal one is something to draw inspiration from She advises that the right style is as important as the right shape ndash a balconette is more suitable for women with broader shoulders plunge for narrower frames and majority opt for threequarters cups ldquoA multiway bra with which you can play with the straps a workwear one and a celebratory bra are desirable in wardrobesrdquo she says continuing ldquoThings have changed since the clicheacutes of lsquolingerie essentialsrsquo Whatrsquos lsquoessentialrsquo for one woman is different from anotherrdquoAre Mumbai women then different from Londonrsquos Donrsquot we all here in our hot and humid city shudder a little when we think of silk and lace underwear Jenkinson says that while cotton fabric is a big selection keeping in mind Mumbairsquos environment the big difference lies in the choice of colours ldquoIn India brighter colours such as magenta are more popular and it is important to keep the pricing equitablerdquo she explainsAn advertisement for the 1970 Spring Summer collection showing corsolettes and brasSo as MampS approaches 100 years with lingerie whatrsquos the next big bra revolution A far cry from the braburning era can lingerie be ldquoliberatingrdquo Isnrsquot shapewear which Jenkinson says has found more popularity with fewer seams and firm control hiding the ldquorealrdquo us ldquoThe joy of lingerie and dressing is that there are no rules So I would never say that every woman has to definitely have something But it is liberating to have a wide variety of optionsrdquo says Jenkinson This was also one of the reasons why Jenkinson designed a line of postsurgery bras we only wish it was available here in Mumbai following a letter from a customer who was in search of bras after a mastectomy ldquoEvery woman has a different type of surgery or reconstruction so we had to work closely with women who had undergone surgery for these brasrdquo says JenkinsonSMD Qs answeredThe allwomen team at Sunday midday posed some of its greatest lingerie predicaments to Jenkinson And herersquos what she had to sayWhy is lingerie so expensive with some items costing more than outerwear If you think about a bra compared to a Tshirt there is a vast difference in fabrics and construction Some bras incorporate over 40 individual components and fabrics such as silk elastic cups straps and lining A bra is like tailoring for the bust Is a VPL actually a big deal Should one just go for thongs insteadCreating a smooth line under clothing is important to provide confidence Thongs are one solution to avoiding VPL but look at solutions for a sleek line under clothing including Brazilian and Rio knicker shapes firm control styles and highwaisted briefs Are fishnet and lace stockings a strict no for workplacesHosiery is having a bit of a fashion moment this season with lots of highend designers dressing their clothing with feminine looks such as lacy and fishnet designs I call this lingerie for the legsI always have trouble with bras and sheerwhite blouses What should I be wearing then Something safe or experiment It is no longer the rule that your bra has to be invisible under your outfit A hint of lace under a blouse can look modern and with so many designers championing the lace lsquounderlayerrsquo look on global catwalks Itrsquos perfectly acceptable to wear black white or even colour under your blouse Is it tacky to wear body shapers Wont I get judged by women and men if I doShapewear has come a long way since Bridget Jones knickers thanks to clever design and innovative technology these frumpy knicker looks are well and truly over Modern shapewear not only creates a slim and smooth silhouette but it also looks feminine and stylish to give you body confidence How often should we wash our bras Is there such a thing as ldquooverwashingrdquoAll our bras are designed to be machine washable even our beautiful silk lingerie How often you wash your bra is down to personal choice and how frequently you wear an individual item You may choose to wash a sports bra after each workout but less frequently for an everyday bra I love flaunting my bra strap now and then and even matching and contrasting it to what I wear What do you think are the guidelines for some bra peekaboo Lingerie should be fun and with so much variety on offer you can experiment to find out what suits you and what you feel comfortable wearing A hint of lace under a top can look very pretty as long as it is considered as part of your total outfit There are a spectrum of colours from statement reds and pinks to delicate prints which can work with your outfit or provide a bold contrast mdash the choice is yours