With a makeshift canopy at the entrance and white boards inscribed with a polite note asking customers to bear with them as they complete renovations, Pizza by the Bay doesn’t seem to have any trouble drawing the throngs.

Braving scowls, we maneuvered past a small group to the glass doors at lunchtime over the weekend, only to have a stewardess armed with a clipboard regretfully inform us that we may have to wait for half an hour. The place was bustling. Half an hour seemed a tad optimistic. We would return on a weekday.