On a muggy rainy Wednesday evening, we tiptoed across puddles to reach Zitar. The name is inspired by Niladri Kumar’s electronic Sitar, popularly dubbed as Zitar. As the manager explained to us, it embodies the philosophy of the eatery — experimentation with traditional dishes to enhance its flavours and presentation.

At 9 pm on a weekday, the eatery was empty while its next-door neighbours were doing brisk business. We decided to forego judgment until we sampled their fare. With large windows overlooking the street and dim lighting, it made for a cosy nook from where one could survey the world passing by.