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Steamed pumpkins, fermented yam leaves and cured pork, the food festival at St Regis picks the best of Naga cuisine for Mumbaikars

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(Accompaniments from left) Green apple with Naga lemon basil, red flint corn salad with king chilli, pomelo salad, and assorted bean salad. (Main course) Pork with anishi, smoked chicken with soya bean and Naga ginger, Rosep aon ( assorted vegetables in b

(Accompaniments from left) Green apple with Naga lemon basil, red flint corn salad with king chilli, pomelo salad, and assorted bean salad. (Main course) Pork with anishi, smoked chicken with soya bean and Naga ginger, Rosep aon ( assorted vegetables in b

It-s no secret that North Eastern food is grossly underrepresented in Mumbai. The options are just a handful-Café Thotrin, a tiny eatery in Kalina that serves Naga and Manipuri food, and the occasional restaurant pop-up. While steaming momos and soulful thukpa might be accessible, real Naga food is hard to come by. Which is why when we heard that chef Karen Yepthomi, owner of Delhi-s Dzukou Tribal Kitchen, is offering traditional fare from the region for the next ten days at Seven Kitchen, St Regis Mumbai, we were stoked.

The inaugural night of the food festival saw Padma Shri awardee photographer Pablo Bartholomew conduct an illustrated talk on Nagas and the tribal lifestyle from a two-decade-old photo project. Present in the crowd was singer Papon, who hails from Assam. But the star of the evening was the effervescent chef Yepthom, who unleashed an extensive spread comprising her signature preparations that included anishi fermented yam leaves, axone fermented soya bean, fresh bamboo shoots, dried fish, akighi raw beans and Naga sticky rice. But, before we plunge into details of our gastronomical journey, it-s important to remember that the key to Naga food is fermentation. The community usually smokes, dries and ferments their meat for longevity, which gives the food a distinct flavour. It might not be up everybody-s street, but it has the potential to enslave you like it did when this writer visited the Northeast earlier this year. Also, the preparations are usually are oil-free, and therefore healthy.

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