In 1973, there was a cholera outbreak in Napoli. Even today, parts of the old city are dirtier than other polished, touristy destinations in Italy, such as Firenze (Florence) and Venezia (Venice). Crumbling mansions look on to streets, which are dressed in withered cobbled stones.

Scooterwallahs whiz past you as if they own the metropolis. People talk in the robust dialect of Neapolitans (residents of Napoli) and almost always sound as if they are threatening a visitor. Indeed, the typical Neapolitan has the image of being a little crude in his manners. Often, as I walk into a store to buy something, all that greets me is a nonchalant nod of the head and a “preggo” (Go ahead).