Face a traffic jam of the feathered kinds

Barely two hours from Ahmedabad are the twin bird sanctuaries of Nalsarovar and Thol which boast of an impressive lineup of resident and migratory species including the BlackTailed Godwit that flies over 3500 km from as far as central EuropeFor wildlife enthusiasts a trip to Ahmedabad doesnt exactly thrill the senses But not too far away from this bustling city are two lesserknown lakes Nalsarovar and Thol Situated 50 and 40 kms away respectively both are large water bodies and differ from each other in colour and character Pelicans line up the waterways inside Nalsarovar SanctuaryMeet the TwinsNalsarovar is a lake that lies between the plains of central Gujarat and eastern Saurashtra The water here is salty and its believed to be the remnants of a sea that once existed between the Little Rann and the Gulf of Khambat Thol on the other hand is a freshwater lake surrounded by scrubland forestsAfter an overnight train journey from Mumbai we alighted at Ahmedabad in the wee hours of the morning and proceeded to Thol Declared as a Bird Sanctuary in 1988 its a small lake of seven sq kms Like its twin Nalsarovar its acknowledged as a birdwatchers delight Our driver stopped at a dhaba on the way where we were served the most delicious faafdas savouries and steaming hot jalebis for breakfastA 90minute drive took us to Thol While driving to the lake look out for the variety of birds that populate the pools and canals The jeep halted at the last point from where we walked through the scrubland forest to reach the lake What struck us initially was the sheer number of bird species in the forest as well as in the waters of the lakeIn the cacophony of the bird sounds it was difficult to identify every species individually Only after we were able to spot them did we realise that these feathered residents included Bulbuls Flycatchers Robins Parakeets and BeeEaters The Night Heron on the topmost branch of a tree basking in the morning sun was the lone silent exceptionIn and around the lake were a host of resident and migratory birds The highlights were a group of Pelicans strutting around the lakes shallow waters a lone Black Ibis with its distinct red crest and a pair of Sarus Cranes the tallest flying bird on earthBirds I ViewSince there was no facility for staying back we beat a reluctant retreat after hours of bird spotting at Thol and proceeded to Nalsarovar An hours drive took us to this unique habitat a lake surrounded by marshlands and small exotic islands Nalsarovar Lake is seasonal and spreads over 115 sq kmThe spectacle on display was breathtaking as we headed towards this bird paradise A large expanse of water was in front of us waves shimmering in the light of the early afternoon Boats of all colours and hues were bobbing lazily on the edge of the lake waiting for customersAfter a hearty Gujarati lunch and afternoon siesta at Toran the lone guesthouse in these parts we ventured towards the lake On the edge of the lake live a friendly tribe called the Padhars excellent cooks and expert boatmen with their beautiful homes built on the blue peripheryThe first sight that welcomed us was a flock of seagulls swooping down from the skies as we sprinkled the groundnuts we had brought from one of the families near the boat jetty These gulls made a racket as they fought with each other to share the windfallAs the boatman navigatedu00a0 us through the reeds to reach the first island a shepherd community called the Bharwads who inhabit these islands welcomed us The tea we had there made from the fresh milk of their buffaloes was one of our most memorable cuppas Energised we got back into the boat and proceeded towards the middle of the lake to the flamingo point It was sight to behold Before us hundreds of flamingos descended into the lake to feed and at the slightest pretext took off into the skiesThey formed a series of garlands in the sky before they came back to settle in the marshlands keeping a respectable distance from their human visitorsAs a BlackTailed Godwit floated on the still waters a thought crossed the mind Even as we crib about our daily commute this bird has actually flown over 3500 km from central Europe Just to be in this paradise called NalsarovarTogether foreverThe beauty of the Sarus Crane species is that they pair for life always flying as a couple The belief that when one of them dies the partner mourns itself to death has inspired poets across the world to write about this amazing relationshipNalsarovars other star attractionsKingfishers Egrets Darters Storks Cormorants Jacanas Moorhens Coots Grebes and Ducks Tholsu00a0other star attractions Mallards Greylag Cheese Spotted Fly Catchers Eurasian CurlewsHow to reachTake any overnight train to Ahmedabad Hire a vehicle from a reputed travel agency car service AhmedabadThol is 50 kms TholNalsarovar is 30 kms Where to stayToran run by Gujarat Tourism is the only hotel in Nalsarovar Call 22024925Ideal duration 2 days and 1 nightBest time Monsoon for resident birds winter for migratory birdsBirdu00a0WatchingThe sanctuaries are busiest on weekends and holidays To see the birds ideally hire a boat for a few hours with a guide to help identify the birds Or else any recommended book on Indian birds will help spot birds here Late Dr Salim Alis published works also make for a handy reference Must carryPowerful binocularsWindcheaterCapDrinking waterGuide bookCamera and batteriesFloatersflip flops waterproof footwear