The adventure of the West Indian Carnival at Trinidad

The truth about islands is that they stand aloof Unlike other masses of land a laidback easygoing vibe appears written into their constitution Port of Spain the capital of Trinidad mdash with its clicheacuted yet eloquent set of golden sands tropical breezes and swaying palms has an abiding partyaroundtheclockandaroundtheyear rhythm Beach gatherings and even a collection of a few locals in a picturesque spot with a bottle of rum are sufficient reasons for the folks here to blissfully dismiss time PicsSonia Nazareth Before Ash Wednesday the first day of Lent each year the West Indian Carnival ups the volume and the intensity of the letyourhairdown scene mdash with its days and nights of nonstop dance soca and calypso music acts bands prancing down the streets and the outandout orgy of gyrating hips and energy sweeping Port of Spain But the salient feature of Trinidad is that whatever time of year you choose to visit the partyhard ethic illustrated eloquently at carnival time flows as fast Beach gatherings annual harvest and fishermenrsquos festivals even a collection of a few locals in a picturesque spot with a bottle of rum are sufficient reasons for the folks here to blissfully dismiss time The islandrsquos artistes make some truly charming crafts Maracas bay one of a multitude of stunning beaches along the coast is a typical socalising or in Trinispeak ldquolimerdquo venue Here there are competing blues of sea and sky and a mouthful of bakeandshark mdash a fish sandwich doused and dressed with mustard mayonnaise garlic chadon beni pepper sauce lettuce and pineapple Clearly Trinidad is one of the best reasons to have got out of my city my clothes my self When I think about it I could have chosen to go to Rome and stood there applauding armless statues or figurines of longgone popes but am instinctively more charmed by this tapestry of humanity dancing atop a cliffface in the most attentionseeking clobber A local poses with one of the murals dotting the island But the enviable quality of the island really lies in its success in embracing competing poles of culture and nature the hedonistic and the harmonious Therersquos a deep cultural heart to Trinidad that can be felt in the whimsical architecture along Queenrsquos Park West and pondered over in the National Museum and Art Gallery with its extensive collection of everything mdash from the geological history of the island to colonial era canons to Trinbagonian art It can be tasted in the everpopular street food mdash from corn soup to pelau to pholourie mdash all speaking volumes of this intensely multicultural land Culinary influences just like other cultural infusions came as an outcome of European colonialism West African slavery and East Indian indentured labour The Waterloo temple an onionshaped dome structure is flanked by prayer flags planted in the water The steel pan concerts around town fascinate me Seated alongside is an Indian who appears anoyed that I am focussed on the sound of the steel pan mdash that originated here using drums fashioned from oil containers brought to the island That and the fact that I am swooning over Soca mdash the melodic sound of calypso fused with percussion in pan yards but have bypassed the pocket of IndoCaribbean culture in Carapichaima In cathedrallike caves are greentinged stalactites and stalagmites reflected in the turquoise pools of water He drives me with the impossibletoavoid friendliness of the people living here to Carapichaima in central Trinidad The Waterloo temple an onionshaped dome structure situated at the edge of the land surrounded by sea flanked by prayer flags planted in the water is a welcome mat for any adventure here Close at hand is a largerthanlife at 26metres tall Hanuman Murthi which is the largest representation of the Hindu monkey god outside India But the Holy Spirit in this trinity of mustdos is really the IndoCaribbean museum It was born of the collaboration of local and expatriate contributions and offers illuminating insight through artefacts and documents into the lives of those Indians who came to Trinidad to work on the sugar plantations as indentured labour or educated meninservice in the 1830rsquos The museumrsquos knowledgeable curator is always near at hand to give further context to any question you may have from a painting you see hanging on a wall to the psychological importance of the sugarcane crop on the IndoTrinidadians here Another peaceful foil to the chaotic is the 15minute boat ride past the holiday home of the rich and the restless past a line of pleasure boats and yatchs away from the mainland to islands like Gaspar Grande Not even the unusual route towards the Gasparee caves on the island past tantrees with names like lsquonakedIndianrsquo owing to the colour of their peeling bark nor the diversity of forest fauna are sufficient to prepare you for the spectral wonder that lies ahead In the cathedrallike caves are greentinged stalactites and stalagmites reflected in the turquoise pools of water to bathe in Above the pools fruit bats dance vigorously From where I stand under these domes wrapped in silence and contemplation the town seem light years away The rear of the caves are home to rock formations named in accordance with the shapes they represent In this unfolding stillness we examine every figure with forensic care trying to guess at what they are mdash The Lovers Buddha Outside bird afficionados zoom in on a scarlet ibis and majestic motmots While in the wee reststation above the caves explorers share tales of their adventures Some talk with shining eyes of visits to secluded beaches where they had front row seats watching naturersquos opera unfold Leatherback turtles laying their eggs on beaches hatchlings stumbling their way to sea appear to have moved many pens and souls Grande Riviere the name several travellers are scribbling furiously upon their mustsee lists is one of the islandsrsquo top turtle nesting sites The biggest shopaholic Irsquove ever met tells me that shersquos packed her bags with Caribbean titles from the eclectic ldquoReaderrsquos Bookstorerdquo plundered the shops for highquality cocoa and coffee gone to town buying soca rapso chutney steelpan and unusual new music at Crosbyrsquos on 54 West Main Road She went on about the abundance of locallymade souvenirs mdash from wovenpalm grasshoppers to carved driftwood Yet she said itrsquos really the peace born in her as she walked the islands explored caves combed undeveloped beaches swam in rock pools and captured rainforest on film that shersquoll carry back most dearly Which is why perhaps classifying Trindad as a funandsun loving nation in the face of its multifacetedness and ability to hold contrasts only scratches the surface of what an adventure it can offer The adventure really begins to unfold only when I look beyond the clicheu00a0