SoBo's new 'so-so' spot

FOODPassableAMBIANCEChicSERVICEDisinterestedCOSTModerateVerdict154Replacing a popular hot spot is always a perilous proposition exacerbated by soaring expectations and inevitable comparisons And while the new Tote Talli at Tote on the Turf at the Mahalaxmi Race Course seems to live up to some of the standards set by its predecessor mdash the muchloved Tote Bar that shut down exactly a year ago mdash we soon realise that it still has a long way to go in several aspectsBut full marks for the chic dark burgundy upholstery and woodpanelled deacutecor that retains the original barrsquos famous angular wooden branchlike beams and buttresses The splitlevel restobar still has the same quirky square portholeesque windows and looming wrought iron staircase leading to the mezzanine level These are remnants that we are happy to find in the restobar thatrsquos otherwise devoid of the charm displayed by its earlier avatarTote punchWe feel a bit like Goldilocks when we request for the freezing ambient temperature to be turned up This after we had made a similar plea for the music volume to be turned down a few decibels And while our disinterested server reluctantly addresses the former with the flick of a button we still find ourselves desperately trying to read our companionrsquos lips in lieu of spoken words All this amidst the highoctaves of a badly played live electric violinOur anxiety is almost assuaged by the reasonably priced and superpotent monkrsquos tea punch Rs 335 The cocktail comes to our table with a heavyhanded pour of Old Monk rum that almost eclipses the promised splash of lemongrass tea and cranberry juice Though neither the menu nor our server give us a clue as to its components we soon discover that our nonalcoholic Tote punch Rs 250 is a refreshing blend of litchi orange and mango juices with a fresh cream finish to itExcited to spot one of our favourite Canadian snacks aka poutine on the menu that too with the option of having it served with the very au courant sweet potato fries we call for one that has a desi twist in the form of a Mumbai mutton kheema Rs 275 topping The first iteration we are served comes to us with regular potato fries We point this out and it is replaced 20 minutes later with another version with banana chips We once again point this out to our server who grudgingly takes it back to the kitchen eye rolls pat in placeGhee roast chicken sloppy joe duoThe table next to us too seems to be grappling with First World problems It seems their server has mixed up the orders and served the vegetarians chicken and the carnivores mdash mushroom Ignoring the commotion we dig into the latest poutine that we hope will be ldquothird timersquos the charmrdquo for us It is Doused in a silky cheese sauce with a spicy supersavoury mutton mince gravy ladled over them the crisp sweet potato fries finally are worth the stressKeeping our spirits buoyant is the delicious quartet of flat bread squares topped with parsley and hazelnut pesto roasted garlic caramelised onions and funkytasting in a good way goat cheese blobs Rs 325 The ghee roast chicken sloppy joe duo Rs 325 too is another winner with its perfectly spiced coconutey chicken centred toasted mini bunsHowever disappointment once again creeps up on us in the form of the criminally salty shrimp everybody loves ramen Tote bowl Rs 375 Now if only the bowl of Japanese soba noodles was as inspired as its name Not even a dash of the requestedfor sweet plum sauce can save this dishWarm gooey and sinful tasting with just a hint of spicy chilly the rich chocolate jalapentildeo fudge Rs 285 is all a good finale should be We are later told that we havenrsquot been charged for the dessert as a peace offering from the chef While we thoroughly appreciate the gesture we wish the same sincerity would have been displayed from the kitchen throughout the mealPoutine fryAt Tote Talli Level One gate 5 and 6 Mahalaxmi Race Course Mahalaxmi West Time 6 pm to 130 am Monday to Saturday 12 pm to 4 pm SundaysCall 6157777744 Exceptional 34 Excellent 24 very Good 14 Good o5 Average Tote Talli didnrsquot know we were there The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for mealsCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates