Lorenzo Berni never tires of telling stories. And the stories are so amazing that you quite forget why you arrived at his restaurant — the Maritime by San Lorenzo at Taj Lands End — in the first place.

Berni has just opened his third restaurant, the first outside UK, to celebrate 50 years in business and it is inside this restaurant that we sit across the table with the 84-year-old who started the San Lorenzo brand in London, back in 1963.