Flying solo

It was in 1993 that chef Ananda Solomon introduced Indians to authentic Thai dishes as he helmed the kitchen at the Thai Pavilion The research period that led to the opening required Solomon to frequent Thailand where he learnt the ropes from locals and focused on the details And this connection sparked off a lifelong love for the food and the people Which is why four years after he left the venture he is back to showcase his love for the cuisine with Thai Naam by Ananda which he describes as more than a drshyeam when we meet him for lunch before it opens for service on February 11Green Thai curryWe step into the new space in Andheri East and are in awe of his attention to detail which we had only a taste of earlier A cluster of inverted Thai umbrellas make up a chandelier that hangs from a high ceiling Then theres a gallery of Royal Thai Benjarong pots from the Ming dynasty and as you walk down the passage you spot dualtoned white and black clay pottery that is now forgotten from northern Thailand on a shelf while ecru lime painted walls display Thai motifs from all corners of Thailand The seating sections are laid out in similar fashion The Bancay section has six booths with exquisite stone sculptures Theres writing on one wall which translates to as you eat so you are revealing how integral food is to Thai culture and identity Solomon tells usMorning gloryThen theres a casual seating section deuce booths by the window and a private semi dining area which houses Thai temple bells as well as traditional crowns of the Lakhon dancers which along with the dreamy jigsaw puzzleshaped ceiling lighting transports you to the Asian country The menu has a Thai logo mdash the national symbol of Thailand with two elephants representing the Chiang Mai region mdash embossed on it Something to depict my time there Ive learnt so much there I miss Thailand mdash its people and energy he tells us as he leads us to the spacious kitchen area which has a staff meditation room and dining areaFresh pomelo saladAs we watch him cook we begin our meal with the spicy soup flavoured with lemon grass lime and bird chilli Rs 300 It is tangy but not overpoweringly so and just spicy enough Next up som tam Rs 600 a young papaya salad with sweet and spicy sauce thats got an addictive edge to it thanks to the freshness of the fruit and the peanuts sprinkled on top that complement it seamlessly But we prefer the fresh pomelo salad Rs 650 a refreshing salad with crispy soft shell crab and a generous helping of pomelo Also because it has a fleeting hint of bitterness we find fascinating Piqued by the idea of a warm salad we try the larb kai Rs 600 which is essentially a spicy minced chicken salad with beans that adds to the dishs textureTom yum soupFor appetisers we recommend the kai haw baitoey Rs 600 The marinated chicken morsels are wrapped in pandanus leaves and fried resulting in succulent bits that have a sweet tinge Add a drop of sweet chilli sauce and its a whole new level of explosion of flavours as the sweetness enhances each bite The morning glory Rs 650 Thai spinach in yellow bean paste is the yummiest healthy dish weve tried in the city Prawn lovers can try the kai bai kapprao Rs 750 The grilled succulent bites are laced with a sweet sour and spicy dressing that highlights the trio of flavoursTub tim grobThe Thai red curry Rs 700 is tangy and spicy but also earthy the perfect example of why Indians gravitate towards the red curry But the green Thai curry Rs 700 reminds us why Solomon continues to be a wizard in the kitchen Its simple yet each mouthful is welcoming for our tummies and taste buds alike It doesnt feel heavy and is something we who have previously been quite sceptical of this preparation could eat every day The phad Thai is unlike what weve tried in Mumbai or Delhi and doesnt contain sprouts something that has otherwise become synonymous with the dish hereWe end the meal with the tub tim grob Rs 300 which is essentially diced water chestnut in coconut milk and also the lightest dessert weve had The water chestnuts are dipped in rose to give them a red colour and slight aroma which works well with the lightasair coconut milk and ample ice bits When we ask him about rooting for an authentic menu he reasons I just know how to cook what locals eat there I dont think about authenticity I know exactly what I am supposed to do I have chosen a path and think I should walk on it to make a difference He certainly shouldOpens on February 11 11 am onwardsAt Thai Naam by Ananda F1 1st floor The Orb JW Marriott Sahar Andheri EastCall 7417300300Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates