Layered with the goodness of seasonal vegetables and masalas secret to each family, undhiyu is a labour of love, its makers, who toil for hours, will attest. Although the dish — which is synonymous with winters, especially for Gujaratis — is largely viewed as a vegetarian affair, various communities such as the Pathare Prabhus and Parsis, among others, have been whipping up their own versions — with mutton, chicken, and seafood. Even among Gujaratis, the preparation has diverse rules based on the region. While they're hailed by different names like popti, ghada and umbariyu, at the heart of them all is the same warmth that's essential for the season.

Undhiyu, a travelling concept

Before digging into its meatier counterparts, Breach Candy-based home chef Warsha Vimadalal takes us back to the Gujju origins of undhiyu: "The word is derived from 'undhu', meaning upside down. Traditionally, it is cooked in a matla or earthen pots." The Goan, who grew up with Gujarati friends and was married into a Gujarati household, believes that the dish has roots in rural farm areas. "To keep themselves warm, farmers would pick out seasonal vegetables like potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, surti papri, bananas, etc, tip them into the matla, turn it upside down, place it in a pit, and fire it from above," she says.