The first time we visited the space, Miss T was in the making. Carpenters chiselled away, mirrors patiently waited to be put up, the carpet colour was under debate and the team — Gauri Devidayal and Jay Yousuf of The Table, and the three Woodside Inn boys; Abhishek Honawar, Sumit Gambhir and Pankil Shah — was dividing duties.

We had been at the right place at the right time, when there were tastings going on. Our first crush was the Burmese tea leaf salad, spiked with peanuts and minced shrimp, which we dug into as Devidayal mulled over the size of the shreds in the papaya salad. The jackfruit curry also swept us off our feet, creamy with coconut milk.