Inside the iconic Army Restaurant — revamped and relaunched as Sabalan: The Taste of Persia — everything is shiny and brand new, from the air-conditioners and chandeliers to the wooden panelling and ornate embellishments on the pillars. Step outside, though, and the 150-year-old building housing the restaurant is literally crumbling around it. Conservationists are worried that the restaurant's facelift might have worsened matters, and could further endanger the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Situated on the ground floor of the 150-year-old Esplanade Mansion at Kala Ghoda, the Army Restaurant was renovated and reopened last week as Sabalan: The Taste of Persia, serving cuisines ranging from North Indian to Persian. The wooden panelling on the walls, sparkling chandeliers and air-conditioned interiors reflect a switch in the ambiance of this once quaint corner.