A new cookbook features a delicious collection of Syrian Christian recipes peppered by reminiscence and history

While community cookbooks are available easily enough, most have either been self-published or produced by small publishers. In what is probably the first of a series, Westland, a relatively new publishing house, has released the delightful The Suriani Kitchen: Reflections and Recollections from the Syrian Christians of Kerala.


Pork stir fried in an 'Urali'

However, Lathika George's book is not just a cookbook. It's an introduction to the Syrian Christian community through an exploration of their cuisine.

Written partly as a memoir, the recollections that it houses about her family and journeys through Kerala, are interspersed between chapters, seasoning the narrative. The chapters are arranged either around ingredients (rice and rice preparations or beef, mutton and pork) or categories of food (accompaniments, pickles, puddings and payasams).

The recipes are a treasure trove, with most of the famous dishes being covered. Familiar names like the simple Egg Roast and time-consuming String Hoppers, the unusual Fresh Cashew Sautu00e9 and classic Molasses Fritters (known as Neyappam) are all in here. Thankfully, all recipes are preceded by brief explanations and serving suggestions.

One of the deterrents readers face with traditional cookbooks is the unavailability of regional kitchenware and ingredients. And so, the author has offered appropriate substitutes. Most of the ingredients are easily available in local markets but she suggests replacing the heavy bell-metal 'urali' with an iron skillet, and the round-bottom cheena chatti with a wok.

The Suriani Kitchen, published by Westland. Available @ Rs 450 at all leading bookstores