In 1993, the 73rd Amendment to the Indian Constitution made mandatory a 30 per cent representation of women in village panchayats. A lovely book, edited by Bishkha Datta, and reported by her, Sonali Sathaye, Sharmila Joshi and my neighbouring columnist Meenakshi Shedde, recorded responses to this in rural Maharashtra. Its title quotes some men who object to women in public life with: "And Who Will Make the Chapatis?"

The figure of the woman 'belo-ing rotis' is the ultimate symbol of gendered servitude. In parts of Gujarat, thinner your rotis, more your matrimonial eligibility. I'm told in Maharashtra it's the excellence of your poha. For such reasons, many women, myself included, never learned to make rotis (though we may eat them), however we may excel at cooking, or enjoy it.