It was 2 am when I felt pinpricks on my right middle finger. Light but very pointed and not painful, as though someone were holding a needle to the skin a moment before piercing. I was sleeping in a mud hut in the village of Kajulu, in Nyanza province, the heartland of Kenya's Luo tribe. Lake Victoria was just some kilometres away. I was on a personal mission to experience life in a place that had neither water nor electricity.