A delicious marriage of opposites

I love dinner table conversations with Dilliwalas Ask them for a recommendation and they will parrot a list Unlike Mumbaikars they will not only tell you where to go but what to eat too Chef Ritu Dalmia once told me Mumbai is more about hanging out Delhi is about what to eatOne weekend I picked Khan Market to get introduced to sweet sorcery by Cakery of Big Chill Cafeacute fame sip on sangrias at The Perch and attempt an afterdrinking North Indian binge of chicken roll and paneer handi at Khan Chacha As I strolled the bylanes stopping to listen to a singer croon Sufi notes a restaurant signboard read Anglow I added the name in my draftsKidney and liver toastThe following week over a chat with the owner of a new whiskey bar in Khan Market that serves an allAnglo Indian menu I was told that most dishes from the community continue to live outside of homes across army canteens and messes Anglows coowner Ajit Singh confessed that when he started researching dishes of this fastdiminishing community he realised that he had tried most of them thanks to his father who was in the servicesPot roastThe cuisine first made its presence felt in army messes colonial clubs and gymkhanas where the British seniors would ask for scrambled or scotch eggs marmalade cregraveme brule and tipsy puddings The British introduced rainbow trouts in the rivers of Manali and Uttarakhand which also became a delicacy says Singh who roped in Mumbaibased chef Michael Swamy as consultant on the projectRailway lamb curryAngloIndian dishes are prepared differently across the country A classic example is the railway lamb curry which was originally served on the train so that the cooks didnt have to stop to restock along the way Invented by Britishers who wanted to carry a protein eat and not restock on the way the variations of the dish have but only one thing in commonmdashvinegar Its what allows it to last for up to three days And coconut milk helps tone down the spice explains SwamyAjit Singh owner AnglowSimilarly the dak bungalow curry changes depending on where it is made and what produce is available The boiled eggs and halved potatoes are indispensable though he adds listing the chicken ding sundried meat puddings and stews as specialties of the cuisineThe author of eight books on AngloIndian food Bangalorebased Bridget White has consulted on the winter menu for Anglow White has access to recipes dating to the 18th century passed down generations through her family The recipes were handwritten and the measures were a challenge to decipher For example the railway lamb ingredients list was written as if a house help was going to buy it from the market Six anas worth of jeera nine anas of chillies and so on White recallsBridget White cooks a typical chicken curry at Bengaluru home According to her AngloIndian food has seen many experiments during the British rule The British did not like the smell of spices and considered native food unpalatable The khansamas tweaked the dishes accordingly The Portuguese taught Indians the judicious use of vinegar which is evident in the vindalho vindaloo for instance while the British gave us roasts stews and sandwiches For the winter menu of Anglow I have added a winter chicken soup with lemon and thyme Its a simple broth with garlic lamb and veggies says WhiteShe says a typical meal at her home comprises rice curry with meat an additional vegetablemdashusually okra cauliflower beans or potatoesmdashand fugat or stir fried dish with vegetablesChef Michael SwamySingh leaves us with an interesting nugget During the World War a lot of marmalade cans were shipped from the ally countries and thats how marmalade became a common ingredient in the bread pudding The National Defence Academy in Pune still serves pudding this way Every day messes would serve a different pudding but the most preferred one was the tipsy pudding spiked with Old Monk Its the one that every officer looked forward to Singh saysIf youre visiting the capital I have a recommendation Nargisi kofta at United Coffee House in Connaught Place A teahouse from the colonial era the setting transports you to a time when large chandeliers Art Deco interiors and tufted sofas were the norm This dish is an egg wrapped in mutton keema and served in a gravy Its this dish that inspired the British to create the deviled egg a hardboiled egg wrapped in meat coated with breadcrumbs and fried Now legendaryChicken pan roast with braised vegetablesThis simple and delicious chicken roast makes a perfect lunch or dinner meal on Christmas Day The leftovers can be used for delish sandwiches the next dayIngredients4 whole chicken thighs and legs or one small whole chickenSalt to taste2 tsp ground black pepper1 tsp chilli powder2 tbsp oil or ghee2 or 3 dry red chilliesA few whole peppercorns3 carrots peeled and cut lengthwise8 or 10 runner beans broken into halvesMethodMarinate the chicken with the salt pepper and chilli powder for about half an hourHeat oil or ghee in a thick bottomed pan and add the chicken thighs together with the broken red chillies and peppercorns Turn the chicken from side to side and fry on medium heat for about 5 minutes or till the pieces becomes firm Add about half cup of water and mix well Cover the pan with a tight lid and cook first on high heat then over low heat turning the chicken occasionally till the chicken is cooked and all the watersoup is absorbed Add the carrots and beans and cook till tender Continue to cook till the chicken isroasted to a lovely golden brown Serve with boiled or mashed potatoes and breadCatch up on all the latest Mumbai news crime news current affairs and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here Also download the new midday Android and iOS apps to get latest updates