Tarun Tahiliani’s not-so-OTT world

Premium international brands are accessible to Indians who travel abroad and are living in our metros today Indian couture designers are not ones to leave the market untouched and are specially focusing on their readytowear pret collections Like Tarun Tahiliani known for his exquisitely embroidered lehengas and saris This month the designerrsquos attention is on his luxury pret brand mdash OTTEarlier restricted to just a rack in his massive Ballard Estate store Tahiliani has now opened an OTT store at Phoenix Palladium Lower Parel The designer discusses Gen Zrsquos shopping behaviour and how an underwearbanian brand sealed the fate of his brandrsquos nameHow do you create affordable pieces while keeping the brandrsquos aesthetic aliveItrsquos Indian but contemporary global and every separate piece stands out Everything can be paired any which way you want In addition to the India Modern style it allows great versatility People value having things that are different but not insane Within India everyonersquos wearing a lot more Western silhouettes and things made by the West So they feel Indian but you can do what you want with it itrsquos very contemporary and global OTT is not just about Indian crafts We have also done a beautiful collaboration with artist Ram Kumar for jackets We have another collaboration with the artists Singh Twins coming up In addition to contemporary Indian art OTT also uses structured drapes A dhoti pant which can be paired with a bomber jacket to a chikankari coat is unlikely to be done by Western designers Itrsquos a modern take on everything IndiaMy biggest irony about OTT is itrsquos not over the top Itrsquos very nonOTT But unfortunately because there is a company called TT underwear and banian we couldnrsquot use my initials as the logo Itrsquos almost like a paradox because this is about beautiful luxury pret and silhouettes and shapes I think thatrsquos very funny itrsquos almost like an oxymoronTahiliani feels that Indian pret is designed in fabrics and silhouettes that are good for the Indian climate and the colours are suited for Indian womenHow would you define Gen Z shopping behaviourIrsquom still trying to figure it out They pretty much preshop on the phone Therersquos also so much sensory overload They are used to shopping a little differently They seem to be much more casual and anything goes with anything So itrsquos rather momentous when they actually dress up They do come to the physical stores particularly if they are shopping for a special occasion everyone wants to try and see things Normally you start buying online after you have tried if the fit works on your body If buying a similar pattern in different print or colour you may not feel the need to come in Unless they run into things in a space such as Dhan Mill Delhi or a mall a lot of research is done onlineAre they choosing your clothes for Insta moments or longevityMany are beginning to shop quite responsibly so theyrsquore not buying fast fashion and are repeating piecesThey want to make sure that they do their bit for the planet I think a lot of them are actually much simpler compared to their mothers or grandmothers Women in India always had a certain way of putting themselves together Gen Z is very casual in comparisonLuxury always survives on being aspirational what is aspirational for themWhen a brand has some legacy and is associated with some value and high glamour mdashwhatever that means to you mdash it does become aspirationalWhen you become a brand you have to promise quality So that quality assures multiple uses into the futureDo you feel the Indian customer is finally ready to invest in Indian pretWe all travel now They know that anything abroad is worth thousands of dollars Indian pret is designed in fabrics good for Indian climate And the colours we do are wellsuited to Indian womenWhat has changed in Indian fashion in the last five yearsItrsquos become much more serious I think there was a very good run post COVID I think Indians are spending on true luxury nowTTrsquos quick takesOne trend that you hope disappears in 2026The overuse of very thin stretch fabrics everywhere that fit too close to the bodyOTT in three wordsContemporary Indian fashion Not OTT laughsStyle advice for every womanBe true to themselves You canrsquot look at a thousand images and think yoursquore going to look like everybody elseA colour yoursquore obsessed with right nowI always have shades of ecru and beige I love love love it on Indian skin In crafts I love chikankari and kashidaFashion rules that you love breakingIndia is all about breaking fashion rules We donrsquot have to follow the Western rules for our fashionBooks you are reading right nowThe Second Mountain by David Brooks And I just got Arundhatirsquos Roy new book