Our first stop is diagonally across the road from the Tiwari Bros showroom opposite Opera House. Don’t take the French Bridge, but go under it and stop to the right. Bharat Gothoskar and Rohit Lahoti from Khaki Tours point out that here lies the Devdhar School of Indian Music, set up by Vishnu Digambar Paluskar (after whom the chowk is also named).