How this chef carries forward a fading culinary legacy with historical roots

Every family boasts of a kitchen secret whispered by grandmothers to doting grandchildren during summertime soirees in the kitchen For chef Manzilat Fatima this was a little more special The greatgreatgranddaughter of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah the last Nawab of Awadh her kitchen secrets are deeply intertwined with Indiarsquos historyThe chef and founder of Kolkatarsquos famed Manzilatrsquos will be serving a sample of this heritage at the Royal Rivayat at Ummrao Courtyard by Marriott ldquoWhen we were young kids we did not realise the importance of the recipes It was only when friends would visit that they would be astoundedrdquo she reminiscesAn engraving of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah Pic Courtesy Wikimedia CommmonsThe recipes chef Fatima recalls were never written down Through generations of kitchen conversations between grandmothers mothers and daughters the right mix of spices ingredients and temperatures were passed down ldquoIn fact I did not take the recipes seriously till I got marriedrdquo she admits Over countless visits and landline phone calls the chef would painstakingly reconstruct dishes till they tasted just rightBiryani with a differenceAmong the recipes is the famed Calcutta Kolkata biryani a survivor from the tumultuous period of the exile of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah After the nawab was dethroned and exiled to Metiabruz in Kolkata he sought to create a miniLucknowldquoIn Lucknow the palace would see food arrive from seven kitchens led by chefs approved by the Nawab In Bengal he only had one kitchen They had to resort to innovationsrdquo the chef remarks pointing to the potato in the Kolkata biryaniWhy the ordinary potato we wonder ldquoIt was an exotic vegetable back thenrdquo chef Fatima corrects us In the early 19th century the potato was still a new import in the Subcontinent ldquoIt also had this quality of absorbing aromas and flavours from the spices to add substance to the biryanirdquo she remarksRoyal innovationsShe reveals ldquoI still remember that my grandmother used to prepare the korma of the biryani in mustard oil Now mustard oil is hardly ever used in Awadhi cuisine but it is an integral part of Bengali traditionrdquo The famous galouti kabab for instance was invented for Nawab AsafudDaula another predecessor ldquoIt is believed that as he grew old and was unable to chew meat the chefs devised the kebab with a punch of meat as well as the feel of a kebabrdquo she explainsA kebab platterExploration of the pastThe venture in Mumbai is an example of this continued innovation Among the highlights will be a rizala of mutton dahi ki phulki mdash a signature Awadhi dish galouti and shami kebabs and the ulta tawa paratha as well as vegetarian variants such as kababs made of raw banana and rizala with mushroom and lotus stems There is the vegetarian biryani too For the purists the chef says ldquoIt was an integral form of Awadhrsquos GangaJamuni tehzeeb Hence the many variations of dal arabi ka salan and pulao make their presence feltrdquoChef Manzilat Fatima picks out spices for a meal preparationSafeguarding the legacyWhile the oral tradition protects the secrets the times demand a change ldquoI am thinking of writing down the recipes for a bookrdquo she admits adding that documentation is a necessary step to protect the culture from vanishing with time ldquoAfter all I cannot let it end hererdquo she emphasisesTill August 27 630 pm onwardsAt Ummrao Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport CTS 215 Chakala Andheri West Call 8976708345 for reservationsCost Rs 2999 onwards nonvegetarian menu Rs 2499 onwardsvegetarian menuDahi ki phulkiIngredientsFor the phulkigtgt 1 cup besan gram flourgtgt 12 tsp red chili powdergtgt 14 tsp garlic pastegtgt 1 pinch baking sodagtgt Salt to tasteFor the dahigtgt 1 tsp black rock saltgtgt 1 tsp saltgtgt 500 gm thick curdgtgt 2 red chilliesgtgt frac12 tsp whole jeeragtgt 1 tsp roasted jeera powdergtgt 1 tsp garlic pasteMethodFor the phulkiPut all the ingredients in a bowl add water slowly and whisk to a thickish batter Let it set for five to seven minutesFor the dahiTake water in a bowl Add salt red chilli and some garlic paste In another bowl take thick curd Add some red chilli powder roasted jeera powder garlic paste black rock salt and plain salt to taste Whisk till it is creamy and add water to a nice pouring consistency before keeping it asideFor the dahi phulkiIn a pan heat some oil on a medium flame Put blobs of the besan mixture phulki in hot oil and let it cook You will notice the inside batter oozing outwards Stir lightly and turn them in the pan Once the phulki is pinkish strain and place them in the bowl with the water Let the phulkis soften by soaking the water After 15 to 20 minutes softly press the phulkis and put them in the bowl of curd Let them become softer In another pan heat oil add whole jeera and two whole red chilies put a tadka of it on the ready dahi ki phulki Serve as a snack or as an accompaniment to any vegetarian or nonvegetarian dish