Calm as kokum This tangy and refreshing Ko-Come Splash is a throwback to childhood summers coloured by kokum juice. The tang of lime and cranberry is balanced out with a smooth vodka base, and garnished with kokum for the local twist.AT Someplace Else, Level 2, Jio World Drive, BKC.Call 8356984990Cost Rs 875 Kala khatta delight Pic courtesy/Hylo Mint juleps, kala khatta and ice give this Chowpatty Julep a refreshing kick to keep you going.AT Hylo, Kala Ghoda, K Dubash Marg, Fort. Call 9004191901Cost Rs 790 Beach vibes Pic Courtesy/Le Cafe The weather might be unpredictable, but it is never a bad time for a gola. This aptly named, Chowpatty Chooski, is a kala khatta gola infused with vodka, and garnished with a pinch of masala chaat.AT Le Café, Jewel of Chembur, near Natraj Cinema, Chembur.Call 2267099977Cost Rs 575 Summer tang If you ever ditched school in Mumbai, raw mangoes might have a special place in your memories. The Green Gimlet brings back that essence of Mumbai’s masti.AT Monkey Bar, Linking Road, Bandra West.Call 7208688757Cost Rs 825 Golden reams Mumbai lives, not only in its streets, but also in its fashion. The traditional Paithani finds an expression through this homemade bitter gourd liqueur adding shimmer to a martini bianco.AT PCO, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel. Call 9920055588Cost Rs 900 Green and refreshing Pic Courtesy/Toast & Tonic You cannot go wrong with this Drop The Betel cocktail that is a doff of the hat to the humble paanwala.AT Toast & Tonic, Godrej Building, BKC. Call 7208871559Cost Rs 950 onwards Santra special Simple, citrusy and fresh, Santra Season is infused with a London Dry gin, fresh orange, green pea shoot aperitif and strawberry wine topped with tonic water. The thecha and pickled karvanda add a Malvani kick to complete its palate.AT Bombay Daak, ONGC Complex, Reclamation, Bandra West.Call 8928791611 Cost Rs 900 Aunty classics Few of this generation might reCall the Aunty bars that lit up Mumbai’s after-hours with home-brewed wines. This Auntie’s Hooch pays tribute to that legacy with white wine, jasmine, grapefruit and beetroot bitters for a nostalgic touch.AT Dublin, ITC Grand Central, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Marg, Parel.Call 22267045110Cost Rs 1,020 Pop nostalgia For a generation that grew up with the earworm of the Boomer ads, the Boomer cocktail at this Fort bar might be a delightful throwback. Also try the Tiffany, an elegant nod to the delicious orange cream biscuits that were part of our daily teatime routine. AT KMC Bar & Bistro, Kitab Mahal, Fort. Call 9987653397 Cost Rs 995 Golawala memories If you are looking for something that brings back the memories of your summer cricket adventures, try this new curation of cocktails, Bombay Baraf Golawala down at Juhu. From the Guava chilli to Green apple with thecha, it drips of Mumbai flavours.AT Carnival by Trèsind, Krishna Curve building, opposite Juhu Garden, Santacruz West.Call 915240012Cost Rs 125 onwards Solkadhi twist As Mumbai as it comes, The Sea Spice is infused with a solkadhi twist, fragrant coriander, kokum agal agal and a unique fusion of green chillies, feta cheese and distilled rum providing the fiery spirit to a rich coconut infusion. Nothing says desi like this one.AT Joshi House, VB Worlikar Marg, MIG Colony, Adarsh Nagar, Worli.Cost Rs 750 Basil beats Pic Courtesy/Millo The cucumber and pineapple are a tribute to the city’s summer favourites, with the touch of basil adding a refreshing kick to this Basil Breeze Quencher. It is a reminder of the colours and energy of the local markets — calm amidst the chaos.AT Millo, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel. Call 9808806806Cost Rs 750
13 May,2025 09:11 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram IyengarTraditionally tops Pic Courtesy/Kailash Parbat This old stalwart continues to serve a delicious Mumbai falooda kulfi (above) to keep the summer tradition going.AT Kailash Parbat, 5-8, Narayan Building, 1st Pasta Lane, Colaba.CALL 7208398863COST Rs 170 (falooda kulfi) Milky magic Pic Courtesy/Parsi Dairy Farm If you’re looking for respite after a stroll on the blazing sands of Chowpatty, try the malai and kesar pista delights at this landmark.ON Parsi Dairy Farm, 261-63, Shamaldas Marg, Princess Street, Marine Lines.CALL 9987822225COST Rs 135 (100 gm) onwards Summer melodies You cannot go wrong with the seasonal favourite in this cold and creamy mango kulfi.AT Gupta Kulfi Ice Cream, 103, Mount Road, Anjeerwadi, Mazgaon. CALL 9867159508COST Rs 70 (100 gm) Millennium miracle There are few kulfi versions that sound as cool as the millennium 2000 that dominates the menu at this 89-year-old Marine Lines hub.AT Kapoor Ice Cream, 75/D, Chandanwadi, Marine Lines.CALL 9867860187COST Rs 90 (millennium 2000) Neat and nutty If you are looking at something different by the beach, try the zaffran rogan kulfi with dry fruits and nuts at this Chowpatty hub.AT New Kulfi Centre, Marina Mansion, SVP Road, Chowpatty, Gamdevi, Grant Road East.CALL 9956177777COST Rs 130 (100 gm, zaffran rogan) Seasoned variations Nuts, fruits, cream and all make the list on the recipes here. Grab a slice of their cassata with kesar badam to settle down on a scorching day.AT Kapoor Punjabi Kulfi, 17, Bhel Plaza, Chowpatty.CALL 9930395858COST Rs 80 (Cassata kesar badam) Simple and familiar While it might seem an anomaly on the list as a regular eatery, they also house some delicious kulfis. Try their kesar and malai offerings the next time you are in the neighbourhood.AT Hotel Hindmata, Akhil Bhartiya Bhavan, Tardeo. CALL 223809955 COST Rs 79 (malai); Rs 90 (kesar) Harbour helpings From mango, to rajwadi gulkand and pista, this dessert haunt offers everything you want on a kulfi binge.AT Old Mumbai Ice Cream, Sector 19, Kamothe, Navi Mumbai.CALL 9324819028COST Rs 45 onwards Good old treats While slices are in vogue, we have a soft spot for the old-school sticks. Try the milan tilla for a colourful twist.AT Jai Jawan Gola Kulfi Falooda Centre, Chowpatty, Girgaon. CALL 7506556792COST Rs 80 (milan tilla) New enthusiasm Pic Courtesy/Joshh Kulfi The new generation recommends this one for its star shaped-kulfis and hip experimental flavours including paan and chocolate sprinkle kulfi.AT Joshh Kulfi, 1, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu; 12, Kalpak Corner, Linking Road, Bandra West. CALL 8591732902 (Juhu) COST Rs 89 onwards Green fillings Pic Courtesy/Kulfi House If the strawberry and mango flavours get too regular, grab a bite of this refreshing meetha paan-flavoured variant.AT Kulfi House, 3, Crystal Corner, Suyog Nagar, Vasai West.CALL 8433518974 COST Rs 40 onwards Hand-crafted taste This Bohri Mohalla legend serves a mandarin apricot and rose with basil seeds that might give the new entrants a run for their money.AT Taj Icecream, 1, SBUT Transit Bohri Mohalla. CALL 223461257COST Rs 900/kg (apricot mandarin; rose with basil seeds) Punjabi flourish Rich, creamy and tempting, this royal Punjabi kulfi falooda is as rich as the name promises.AT Via Bombay, Jewel of Chembur, near Natraj Cinema, Chembur. CALL 2267099988COST Rs 275 Sugar-free kesar kaju pista kulfi Ingredients>> 2 cups full-fat milk>> 1/2 cup unsweetened almond milk (optional)>> 15-20 cashews>> 15-20 pistachios>> 8-10 strands of saffron>> 1/2 tsp cardamom powder>> 2-3 tbsp erythritol or stevia (as per taste)>> 1 tsp rose water (optional)>> 2 tbsp cream (optional) MethodSoak saffron strands in warm milk; keep aside. Add some milk to ground cashews and pistachios and make a coarse paste. In another pan, boil full-fat milk on medium flame. Reduce it by about 1/3 while stirring occasionally. Add the nut paste, saffron milk, and cardamom powder. Cook for five to seven minutes until the mixture thickens. Add sweetener (erythritol/stevia) and cream if you intend to use it. Cook for two minutes. Add rose water, mix, and turn off the heat. Cool and pour into kulfi molds. Freeze for six to eight hours or overnight. De-mold and serve chilled with a sprinkle of crushed pista or kesar. Recipe courtesy: Harsh Kedia, chef & co-founder, Conscious Mithaiwala
02 May,2025 08:59 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram IyengarMain course Flavours from the other bay Aam kashundi kakra. Pic/Satej Shinde Think of Bengali food, and one of the first ingredients that come to mind is the pungent, heady aroma of mustard. A seasonal twist on the ingredient, aam kashundi kakra is where tender crab meat is cooked in a spicy, mango-mustard gravy and paired with fluffy rice for that perfect afternoon lunch. Chef Srimant Sahoo shares, “This pairing [crab meat with mango and mustard] is very close to every Bengali’s heart and a celebration of the state’s coastal bounty.”AT Oh! Calcutta (multiple outlets; Andheri, Tardeo, Vashi)TIME 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm, 7 pm to 11 pmCALL 9320478301 (Andheri outlet)COST Rs 675 A Kashmiri delight Chicken gushtaba. Pic courtesy/Folk Kalaghoda Part of the Kashmiri wazwan (a traditional multi-course feast), chicken gushtaba has succulent chicken meatballs dipped in a flavourful yoghurt-based yakhni that is as light as it is flavourful. Chef Jasleen Marwah explains, “Though the dish is traditionally made with mutton, the chicken variation is popular among the office goers because of how light it is on the stomach, especially in the summer.”AT Folk, 14, New Bake House, Maharashtra Chambers Lane, Kala Ghoda, Fort.TIME 12 noon to 11 pmCALL 9820453001COST R525 SEE PHOTOS: Indulge in these mango-based food menus in Mumbai this summer season Season’s best Dal puri and aam ki launji. Pic/Kirti Surve Parade If you haven’t already started on the season’s most loved offering, we have one more mango dish for you to try. Crispy, puffed dal puris (left) with a spiced moong-dal stuffing along with aam ki launji (raw mango relish) is the savoury cousin to aam ras and puri that will win you over with its tangy and spicy flavour profile. AT Soam, Sadguru Sadan, Babulnath, Girgaon Chowpatty.TIME 11.30 am to 10.30 pmCALL 2223698080COST R450 Beverages Gulp it down A sweet and spicy blend of green chillies, basil seeds, and sugar syrup, Kulukki Sharbath from Kerala is a refreshing cooler for the sweltering weather. This outlet serves the drink in two summer special flavours; pineapple and lime.AT Kerala Cafe (Chembur, Vasai)TIME 8 am to 12 midnight CALL 9136622645COST Rs 75 Sweet sips from Nagaland Mulberry ferment Here is a seasonal alternative to kombucha that you need to try. Made from foraged wild apple that grows once in a year, the wild apple fermented drink is a specialty from Nagaland. Co-chef Aren Longkumer explains how the natural fermentation of the drink gives it a characteristic sweet-sour taste. This outlet also has a bunch of other summer-special offerings like the mulberry ferment, roselle flower ferment and rice ferment which are equally refreshing.AT Naga Belly, Shop No. 24/A, Hubtown Premier Residence Commercial, Mudran Kamgar Nagar, JP Road, Four Bungalows, Andheri West.TIME 12 noon to 4 pm, 6.30 pm to 11 pmCALL 9321987470COST R295 (wild apple drink) Protein punch Wild apple fermented drink. Pics/Ashish Raje This classic, traditional drink from Bihar is a nutrient-packed beverage that will cool you down without burning a hole in your pocket. Made with roasted gram flour and infused with chillies, cumin powder, black salt and other spices, sattu sharbat is a must-try in this heat.AT Desi Khao Champaran Meat House, Oshiwara Garden Inn Co.Housing Society LTD, New Link Road, Adarsh Nagar, Jogeshwari West. TIME 11 am to 12 midnightCALL 9939998001COST Rs 60 Dessert When chaas met sorbet Masala chaas sorbet. Pic courtesy/Lost and Hungry Studios If you are also thinking about how something as tart as chaas ended up in a sorbet, you must try this unique, summer-special intervention. Layers of yoghurt in the texture of a sorbet spiced with roasted cumin powder, ginger and rock salt is where your craving for something cool will be satiated as Chef Saloni Kukreja tells us, “We wanted to do something apart from the usual creaminess of ice creams. The chaas sorbet is where we are going back to two of the most loved flavours of the summer season and our childhood.”LOG ON TO Indu Ice Cream on Swiggy, Zomato TIME 11 am to 11 pmCOST Rs 170 (for 100ml ceramic matka)
14 April,2025 10:43 AM IST | Mumbai | Divyasha PandaTake it from a Jain who grew up in Thailand — Thai cuisine has plenty to offer for the vegetarian palate. Ishaa Jogani Shah grew up in Bangkok. Unlike tourists who head straight to the street markets to savour skewered creepy crawlies, she knew where to find the best kway teow naam at Walee, pad krapow at Tien Sing, and a spread of vegetarian fare at Sutunthip. Earlier this month, she along with hotelier husband, Deval Shah, a graduate from Les Roches, Switzerland, with stints at the Taj, Oberoi and Marriott groups — opened a 26-seater casual fine-dine, Toa 66 at Churchgate (Toa: table in Thai; 66 is Thailand’s country code). Down a flight of stairs, the entrance welcomes you with the sight of a Jim Thompson painting. Titled Jim’s Dream, it depicts village houses opposite the artist’s home. Inside, a photo of Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), the much-loved late king of Thailand, greets patrons. Rust red walls, tall glass windows, and wooden décor give the feeling of a Thai home. The kitchen, seen as a glimpse in a rectangular stretch, adds to the drama. The interiors are splashed with memorabilia around the couple’s lives and their milestones, personal and professional. Kra-pow! Chef’s challenge The duo took their time to find the right chefs, and plumbed for Kanchit and Natanong Vongvichai, who are familiar with India. While Natanong had spent nearly a decade here, Kanchit’s earlier Indian stint was at Vong Wong at Nariman Point. “The cuisine demands precision. It respects tradition and also allows for evolution,” says Kanchit, adding that it is often misunderstood as being meat and seafood-centric. “Thailand has a large Buddhist community that follows a vegetarian diet. There is more to Thai cuisine than coconut and lemongrass,” he adds. This is the first time we are executing an entirely vegetarian Thai tasting menu in 35 years of cooking together. Kway teow lod The kitchen sources coconut milk, coconut meat, sauces, rice sticks, sticky rice, jasmine rice, glutinous flour, chaplu leaves, bird eye chilli and makrut lime from Thailand. “Even our curry pastes are imported from Bangkok, prepared by a Buddhist woman who doesn’t include onion or garlic in it, making it ideal for strict vegetarians,” Kanchit reveals. Sit down, and taste Currently, the restaurant is offering a seven-course set menu to its patrons. One of the most delish local foods that we have relished while on visits to Thailand is miang kham. Call it a Thai version of paan, it is served on a colourful cane tray as our first course. We take a chaplu leaf and slather it with a sweet and sour house sauce, and top it with toasted coconut, peanuts, green chillies and raw onions. A drizzle of lemon juice turns it into a taste bomb. The beauty is that each time, depending on the choice of portion and toppings, the impact varies. The second course is lookchin protein, a Thai-style soy protein cutlet, served with a delicate tom yam sauce. Larb tofu The next course, larb tofu, reminds us of paneer bhurji, but with additions of Thai flavours such as lemongrass and ginger. We like the rice crisps, and the glutinous rice that comes wrapped in banana leaf. Kway teow lod are handmade rice noodle sheets stuffed with soy protein, cabbage and baby corn served in a dreamy spicy panang sauce. Fragrant notes of galangal, lemongrass and chillies marry the creamy nuttiness of peanuts. Drizzled with coriander oil and topped with fried onion crisp. The coconut milky curry sauce is subtly spiced, warm and filling. That most dishes have tofu or soy protein to replace meats leads to a monotony that sets into our seven-course meal. Drinks are zero-proof, and thoughtfully designed for food pairings. Bad Thai (Rs 450) is a savoury sip that packs in the chaos of chillies, tamarind, lime and clarified coconut cream. It comes with a side of flattened beans to munch on. Pink milk (Rs 450) is served with lychee, rose, strawberry and sala syrup, while the open sesame, I want my coffee (Rs 450) is a take on a caffeinated whisky, with the earthiness of rice syrup. Our favourite is Bangkok glory (Rs 450), which is prepared from elevated tonic water with citrusy kaffir lime leaves, spicy galangal (Thai ginger) and fragrant lemongrass. For the mains, we opt for khao pad krapow with tom kha. Confession time: When we taste the Thai basil fried rice, we miss the chicken. The coconut-galangal soup is a warm hug. The citrusy notes of galangal and the milky creaminess of coconut are drool-worthy. The first dessert is a thap thim krop — water chestnuts coated in tapioca flour. Apart from the expected presence of water chestnuts and coconut milk, chefs have incorporated sala (snake fruit) syrup in the liquid as well as to colour the water chestnuts. It offers palate relief after the fiery flavours in the mains. The final course is kraw pow! an edible dark chocolate cup smoked with oakwood. It is filled to the rim with decadent Peruvian chocolate mousse, layers of pandan cream and a pistachio praline, all cloaked in a dark chocolate crumble. Toa 66At Rehmat Manzil, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate.Call 9920820800Cost Rs 3,795 (seven-course meal)
09 April,2025 09:12 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum PandyaA different touch Pic Courtesy/Donmai If you like an experiment, this vegetarian special miso ramen yasai comes with an oat milk broth in its umami.AT Donmai, ground floor, Altimus, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Worli.CALL 9730659776COST Rs 725 onwards That’s all pork Pic courtesy/Mizu Izakaya A ramen Sapporo with braised pork belly chashu, hand-pulled ramen and bone broth sounds great. But the icing is the jammy Japanese ajitsuke eggs that top the bowl.AT Mizu Izakaya, 2, B Wing, Ganga Jamuna Sangam CHS, Pali Hill, Khar West.CALL 9372023641COST Rs 1,149 onwards Go Naruto PIC Courtesy/Atsui Ramen If you are looking for a touch of anime action, head over to Andheri for this Gen-Z hotspot. Their popular ichiraku ramen bowl is inspired by the anime series, Naruto Shippuden.AT Atsui Ramen, HEK Compound, Mahakali Caves Road, Andheri East.CALL 9930919516COST Rs 520 (vegetarian); Rs 580 (chicken); Rs 650 (prawns) Mumbai ramen PIC Courtesy/Sozo Izakaya This Sapporo spicy miso ramen comes with a spicy broth brewed with Indian flavours that douse the springy noodles.AT Sozo Izakaya, JP Road, Aram Nagar Part 2, Versova, Andheri West.CALL 9867986481COST Rs 405 onwards (tofu); Rs 475 onwards (chicken) One for the road PIC Courtesy/Milliways Inc Grant Road ought to be your next pick for a takeaway ramen meal. Try this shoyu ramen: chashu Belgian pork — braised Belgian pork belly with broth seasoned with shitake and bonito infused soy tare. Head over for a direct pick-me-up.AT Milliways Inc., 12, Piroja Mansion, Grant Road East. CALL 8828878756 COST Rs 630 onwards Miso all the way The sweetness of the yakinori and the umami of the miso lend this seasonal miso ramen bowl brothits unique flavour. With vegetarian, chicken and pork options, it is quite popular.AT Mirai, Suburbia Mall, SV Road, Bandra West.CALL 9004618228COST Rs 720 onwards Schooled in Nippon Pics Courtesy/Meats and Plants This Kalyan haunt is fashioned by culinary students who were awed by the dish in Japan. Their Japanese chicken ramen is prepped and served on demand. It sells out fast, so order in advance.AT Meats and Plants, 6, Chikan Ghar Road, Kalyan West.CALL 9833412539COST Rs 449 Miso ramen bowl Ingredients>>130 gm Ramen noodles>>100 gm Chicken breast (boneless) >>1 Egg >>Leek >>Spring onion>>Broccoli >>Zucchini>>Bok choy >>5-10 ml Goma abura sesame oil >>400 ml Stock water >>5 gm Chinese garlic >>1-2 sheet Yakinori >>Shiro miso >>Ginger >>10 ml Soya >>10 ml Cooking sake >>10 ml Mirin >>15 gm Miso ramen sauce Method For the broth:Place the chicken in the water, and bring it to a boil on low heat over 3 hours. Remove and strain the soup. For the ramen:Cook the ramen noodles. Drain and set aside. For the chicken chasu, marinate the chicken with ginger and garlic overnight. Shape it into cylinders. Simmer it in soya, sake, mirin and water for an hour. Once done, set it aside to cool. Blanch all the vegetables and soft boil the egg. For the miso sauce:In a small pot, cook the miso paste, ginger and garlic. Whisk until it dissolves. Pour the miso sauce into the broth and whisk while simmering. Garnish with thinly sliced leeks, soft boiled eggs, spring onion, chicken chasu slices and a drizzle of sesame oil. Inputs from Rinchen Angchuk, partner, Mirai Ramen in pop culture Naruto’s hunger pangsAnime fans are familiar with the ichiraku ramen that would help Masashi Kishimoto’s Naruto cope with tough times. From being bullied to becoming a hero, the dish was a part of the journey. Miyazaki’s miracleFrom giving us a visual meal in Ponyo (2008), to making it himself for his animators, Hayao Miyazaki relied on the quickfire recipe of ramen to inspire animators and audiences alike. Sci-fi satisfactionWhile the popularity might be recent, readers of a generation still recall the sight of a drenched Harrison Ford stepping into a ramen shop for a break in Ridley Scott’s iconic Blade Runner (1982)
04 April,2025 09:01 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram IyengarThe eyes of Sayed Safar Ali, 84-year-old owner of Lucky Restaurant, light up when we tell him we want to speak about biryani. “Making biryani is art, not science. The word biryani comes from the Persian word ‘biryan’. When it came to the Mughals, they called it biryani. In the early days, few Mughlai restaurants in Bombay served biryani. Lucky, which opened in 1938, was one of them,” he says with pride. The restaurant serves Mughlai biryani, a version passed down from the court of Mughal emperors. “Memoni biryani is similar, just a bit generous with the oil,” Ali points out. The famous trio Hyderabadi, Lucknowi and Kolkata biryanis are the most popular versions. “The most sophisticated version comes from Lucknow. “The people of Lucknow like nothing better than to eat and be happy. They perfected the art of biryani, their recipe leaning towards a more fragrant style. Hyderabadi is spicier, with bold masalas. Kolkata, with the addition of egg and potatoes is overall mild” says Ali. Biryani is highly dependent on the hands that make it. Sayed Safar Ali with a plate of chicken biryani. Pic/Satej Shinde “Vegetable, mutton, chicken or fish are marinated in curd and masalas are mixed in. The last addition is of birista or fried onions, Ali explains. “When a biryani is sealed in atta, it is called dum cooking. This ensures the right temperature fed from above and under so it cooks evenly. There is a right time to put the masala as well, says Ali. “The right time to put the masala in the marinade. It has to be introduced before putting the par-boiled rice,” Ali signs off. Pan Indian palate Consultant chef Sadaf Hussain’s recent book, Masala Mandi, has over 50 types of biryani masala blends. “One is from Assam. While I have been corrected that Assam doesn’t have a [traditional] biryani, I wanted to add a version for representation,” says Hussain, who loves Delhi’s achari biryani made with the addition of pickle. Another version is his mother’s recipe that combines Hyderabadi and Kolkata flavours. Chef Sadaf Hussain “When in Mumbai, I savour the Bombay biryani, especially the local ones. My top picks are Noor Mohammadi and Biryani by Kilo. I make a version using Shan Masala,” he adds. While biryani in the north of India is made from long-grained Basmati rice, south India uses shorter-grained rice like Kaima or jeerakasala. “Due to the popularity of North Indian biryani, many institutes in South India have switched to Basmati,” says Hussain. Deciphering the methods of biryani making, he adds, “Hyderabad has a version of biryani with kacche gosht (raw meat). The meat is cooked after it is marinated in masalas for around 24 hours. It is added to the pot or vessel below the rice for cooking. On the other hand, Lucknowi and Kolkata biryani is usually a pakke gosht ki biryani. This means you first make the chicken or mutton korma and then you’re layering it up with rice. Here, the elders and the purest would add rice at the bottom [layer] first and then meat. Upkeeping family traditions While the definitions will divide biryani into regional pockets, homestyle serves merge the borders for a personal, fuller taste. Shahla Ahmed, a caterer in Delhi, who specialises in Rampuri and Mughlai cuisine and runs Khaalaa’s Kitchen, says the best biryani is one that has been elevated keeping family traditions and taste palates in mind. “My father had a typical way of making biryani, and when I started experimenting, I made it as per my taste. My version of the recipe has Nizami influences, along with the addition of saffron that gives it an Irani touch. I was a picky eater. I don’t like elaichi or mint leaves in my bite. I grind my own masala.” Biryani goes South South India has a robust list of biryanis that resemble meat and rice in curry made moist with the addition of tomato and onions. While the donne biryani of Karnataka is spicy and aromatic, and served in a pouch which lends it its name; Dindigul biryani of Tamil Nadu is dark brown with tender meat; Thalassery or Malabar version of Kerala is a mild dum biryani. Sarah Jacob Nair of Nair on Fire swears by her mum’s biryani. “She has taken several influences as she lived across the state. It is greenish like a donne or a Dindigul, but a milder Kerala style with gentler masala of nutmeg, mace and shahi jeera,” says Jacob. On the menu, she has a homestyle pothichoru-style biryani. Traditionally, a pothichoru is a food packed in banana leaf for a journey. “It has sabzi, curry, chutney, omelette and chicken. Our biryani too, doesn’t have distinct layers, but is a mish-mashed serving. For Eid, we are offering a Malabar dum biryani,” she says. Kerala also has variations like a rowther biryani from Palakkad and manjali biryani from Kochi. “Fish biryani doesn’t take certain masalas as well as chicken and mutton. We do a minimal seasoning of garam masalas, more pepper,” Nair elaborates. Pulao or biryani: The big debate Chef Mukhtar Qureshi of Waarsa at NCPA, Nariman Point, simplifies the difference. “In pulao, vegetables are tempered with rice but without dum (slow cooking). In some parts of Delhi, pulao is made with proper dum, but in Gujarat, Kolkata, and Rajasthan, it is cooked directly. Think of pulao as similar to Chinese fried rice,” he laughs. Vegetable biryani. Pics Courtesy/Waarsa He also acknowledges the much-debated concept of vegetarian biryani. “The most popular vegetarian biryani was Pulao buchi from Kashmir. In Kerala and Rampur, it is made with kathal [jackfruit]. In Gujarat, biryani can have a sweet touch, but in Kolkata, there is no vegetarian biryani — only vegetarian pulao,” he explains. Mukhtar Qureshi At Waarsa, Qureshi serves a Lucknowi vegetable biryani with saffron, as well as one made with kathal, both cooked using proper dum. “It is just as good as our mutton biryani,” he signs off. Take Your Pick >> LuckyAT Junction of SV Road & Hill Road, Bandra West. CALL 919820066471 >> Noor MohammadiAT Wazir Building, Bhendi Bazar. CALL 23456008 >> Biryani by KiloLOG ON TO biryanibykilo.comCALL 18002122212 >> Nair on FireCALL 9324059522LOG ON TO @naironfire on Instagram >> WaarsaAT NCPA Marg, Nariman Point. CALL 9594943555 >> ShalimarAT Mohammed Ali Road, Bhendi Bazaar. CALL 69098888 >> Go Biryan!CALL 9152848844LOG ON TO gobiryan.dotpe.in >> JafferbhaiAT Pathe Bapurao Marg, Grant Road East; Dadar and Bandra. CALL 23875656 >> Oh! CalcuttaAT Shop 99/C, Tardeo; multiple outlets (Andheri and Vashi)CALL 8356905158
29 March,2025 08:52 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum PandyaKakdicha korda INGREDIENTS. 2 medium cucumbers (peeled and grated). 1/3 cup chickpea flourFor tempering . 2 tbsp groundnut oil. 1/4 tsp mustard seeds. A fat pinch of strong asafoetida. 1 green chili, chopped. 1/2 tsp turmeric powder. 1/4 tsp red chili powder. Salt to taste Keertida Phadke METHODSqueeze out the water from the grated cucumbers and make a paste with 1/3 cup of chickpea flour. You might need to add more water depending on how juicy the cucumbers are and how runny you prefer the korda. Tip the grated cucumber in a pan and sauté on medium-high heat for about five minutes — since this vegetable can be consumed raw, all you want to do is soften it. Add salt to taste. Now add the chickpea flour and combine. If you are making korda for the first time, adjust the water once you sauté the mixture for a bit. Cover and cook for six to seven minutes. Serve with rice or rotis. Kakdicha kayras Pics Courtesy/Keertida Phadke INGREDIENTS. 2 cups tavsa cucumber (the dark green variant) For the mustard dressing. 2 tbsp red mustard seeds. 1/2 to 1 tsp jaggery. 1/2 tsp red chili powderFor tempering. 1 tbsp groundnut oil. 1/2 tsp mustard seeds. 10-12 fenugreek seeds. A pinch of asafoetida. 1/8 tsp turmeric powder. 1-2 tbsp roasted and ground peanuts (optional) METHODPrepare the mustard powder by grinding two tbsp of red mustard seeds along with 1/2 tsp jaggery and two to three tbsp of water. In a bowl, whisk the mixture till it gets frothy and smells zippy. In another bowl, combine two cups of deseeded and chopped cucumber with 1/2 tsp red chili powder and 1/2 to 1 tsp jaggery with salt according to taste. Add the mustard dressing over the cucumbers, and combine. Now, prepare a tempering of 1 tbsp groundnut oil, 1/2 tsp mustard seeds, 10 to 12 fenugreek seeds, a pinch of asafoetida, 1/8 tsp turmeric powder and a pinch of red chilli powder. Pour this over the cucumber mixture and mix. The cucumbers might release water. If the final mixture feels too watery, add one to two tbsp of roasted and ground peanuts before serving. Recipes courtesy: Keertida Phadke, Chef Other ways to savour the juicy vegetable The good ol’ sandwich Cut the edges of bread slices and make a mix of cream cheese, tuna, dill leaves, salt and pepper, red chilli flakes. Spread this mix on the bread, cover it with thin slices of cucumber and a healthy sandwich is ready. A cooling drink With a scrapper, make fine slices of cucumber (the dark green variant) and place them then ice cold water, so that they curl up a little. Rim your glass with a mix of salt, red chilli powder and chaat masala. Add soda, ice, cucumber slices and lemon juice. You can add guava juice, watermelon juice or kokum juice to incorporate more flavours. Healthy snack Take cucumbers and cut them in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds with a spoon. This exercise should form a long hollow in the cucumber. In a separate bowl, mix cream cheese, onions, chopped basil, salt and pepper. Mix it all well. Put the mixture in a piping bag and pipe it out in the cucumber hollow. Garnish with spring onions greens and serve. Tips courtesy: Reshma Mane, chef
25 March,2025 09:35 AM IST | Mumbai | Divyasha PandaYou cannot have a good Navroze unless you have gorged on a whole patra ni macchi all by yourself. The culinary magicians at Ratan Tata Institute put their special skills on display just for festivals like these. This season, the institute has curated a menu that defines the best in Parsi cuisine, from vegetarian variants of berry pulao, to the more traditional patra ni kolmi, Kashmiri gosht ma tarela papeta or the chicken farcha. If you are looking for something spicy, order in the lagan nu achaar. For the sweet-toothed, there is the option of the pistachio rose bar cake, rose falooda and the ever-present lagan nu custard. Till March 19 AT RTI outlets (Hughes Road; Holland House, Colaba; Piccolo, Fort; PGH Cafeteria, Kemps Corner; Treasure Chest, Colaba; Dadar and Bandra) CALL 9152330577 (for queries and orders)
20 March,2025 10:00 AM IST | Mumbai | The Guide TeamAs the city’s Parsis and Iranis celebrate Navroze, Folk, the traditional Indian regional restaurant at Kala Ghoda by chef owner Jasleen Marwah, thought it timely to create the Navroze table at her dining space. She has also gathered her chef girls’ squad to represent delicacies for Baisakhi, Pongal, Navroze, Gudi Padwa, Bihu, Vishu, Pohela (Poila) Boishakh. Marwah has roped in food and travel writer Roxanne Bamboat to set up a Haft Sin or special table at the restaurant. “The idea is to pay homage to this Parsi-Irani tradition as they celebrate Navroze today. However, the fare is from across the country — Bihari, Assamese, Punjabi, Chitrapur Saraswat Brahmin (CSB; Karnataka) and Kolhapuri,” shares Marwah, who has made roundels of topli paneer and patra ni machhi from Parsi cuisine for the menu. (From left) Roxanne Bamboat and Jasleen Marwah Bamboat explains, “Parsis and Iranis celebrated Navroze on March 20 and 21, which is also spring equinox. We lay out a Haft Sin or special table at home. At Folk, we wanted to recreate this spring-time magic, and have decorated our very own table. A typical spread consists of seven symbolic objects, including apple, dried berries, garlic, sprouted wheat or barley, sumac and vinegar. It includes coins, flower buds, sweets, painted eggs, garlic, a mirror, and candles. In Irani and Parsi homes, family members decorate the table with offerings of sweets and fruit for any well-wisher who comes to visit,” says Bamboat. Take a look at what foods are on offer: > Sattu kachori, alu; (left) mitthe chawal; (right) tinde bibbe upkari BIHAR: Sattu ki kachori: Chef Rachna Prasad is making sattu ka sharbat, sattu kachori and halwai wali sabji with thekua and ras pua. “Phagun, celebrated during Holi, is known for festive delights like thekua, malpua, dahi vada, pua, and mutton curry, bringing together the vibrant flavours of Bihar. Rachna Prasad Additionally, as summer approaches, Bihar’s internal regions, like Magadh, Mithila, and Bhojpur, rely on sattu-based dishes for cooling and nourishment,” says Prasad. Reshma Mane MAHARASHTRA: Kolhapuri mutton curry: Home chef Reshma Mane is cooking puran poli and Kolhapuri mutton to ring in the flavours of Maharashtrian New Year, Gudi Padwa. “The Kolhapuri mutton is my mom’s recipe made using the Kolhapuri tikat masala we source from Kolhapur. Our puran polis are smaller in size, and of medium thickness filled with chana dal and jaggery.” An Assamese pakoda platter; (right) Gitika Saikia ASSAM: Sesame pakodas: Chef Gitika Saikia has created a pakoda platter to represent Bohag Bihu by using local ingredients. Think curry leaves, pumpkin and black til bora (black sesame) turned into pakodas with delish tomato chutney. Amrita Kaur PUNJAB: Mitthe chawal: Chef Amrita Kaur sets Punjabi mitthe chawal for Baisakhi celebration. “They have saffron and dry fruits infused in sweet rice. Since it is a Navroze table, we’ve added berries to the recipe,” reveals Kaur. Shanti Petiwala KARNATAKA: Tendli bibbe upkari: Shanti Petiwala is cooking a sub-cuisine of Chitrapur Saraswat Brahmin — a small community from Karnataka. “Spring harvest has bibbe or tender cashews. I have made bibbe upkari — a simple stir fry with ivy gourd or tendli with bibbe and freshly grated coconut. The bibbe are allowed to dry in their skins. They require rehydrating for a couple of hours, peeling and then splitting to use in the dish. Our tendle bibbe upkari is best with dali thoy (a special Saraswat dal preparation) and sheeth (rice).” All the dishes are on the menu to order à la carte. TILL March 24 (lunch and dinner seatings) AT 14, New Bake House, Kala Ghoda. CALL 9820453001 COST Rs 500 (per dish, à la carte)
20 March,2025 08:59 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum PandyaTwo years ago, Lokhandwala resident Dr Ayesha AR discovered her gluten sensitivity, so she cut out wheat from her diet. Ramzan made her miss eating parathas at sehri, a meal had during pre-dawn, often laced with food memories. She picked up a recipe from her mother’s Facebook account for a dry fruit shake (made in water, not milk) with soaked cashews, almonds, figs, walnuts, raisins and dates blended with banana, which proved to be an ideal replacement. “Shifting to just a glass of a shake took some mental conditioning, but the results convinced me,” she shares. Ayesha felt fuller for longer without the discomfort of greasy foods. This year, she has added protein powder to the drink, smoothing her mornings. “Anyone who works out knows the importance of protein,” she explains. Nutritionist Sarah VazirAli explains that during fasting, the body uses stored fat for energy after eight to 12 hours without food, promoting fat loss and improved insulin sensitivity. Human Growth Hormone (HGH) levels rise, preserving muscle mass, while fasting also aids cellular repair, reduces inflammation, and supports gut health. However, slowed metabolism and dehydration can cause energy dips and cravings, making sehri and iftar choices vital. Pic/iStock VazirAli suggests 15 to 30 grams of protein at sehri to sustain muscle and curb hunger — about two eggs, a katori of dal, or a palm-sized portion of paneer. For more active folk, add nuts or yoghurt. A simple plate guide: 1/4 protein, 1/2 complex carbs, and 1/4 fats. Options like egg with roti, ghee and banana offer steady energy. Desi choices include moong dal chilla, besan chilla with dahi, paneer bhurji with roti, and dahi with chia seeds and dry fruits while avoiding fried or heavily spiced foods to prevent bloating. Chef Osama Jalali, who is also a professional powerlifter, says, “During Ramzan, the main macro we should take into consideration is protein. I ensure I have at least 1.5 grams of protein in my body weight. Kache qeeme ki tikiya is my go-to sehri dish. It is a high-protein meat marinated with spices and air-fried. I have it with multigrain bread. It fulfils my protein macros and keeps me satiated throughout the day.” Dr Ayesha AR, Sarah VazirAli and Haya Hanif Keeping it charged Restaurateur Haya Hanif says, “Good character begins in the stomach.” Switching to healthy eating wasn’t easy after years of feasting, but seeing results motivated her. Dealing with health and hormone issues that affected her confidence, Hanif realised the need for a diet change, especially during Ramzan. “The month is meant for detoxing the body and mind, not feasting,” she elaborates. Inspired by Islamic teachings on self-control, she opted for high-protein meals like plain egg bhurji or boiled eggs salad with avocado, leftover grilled kebabs and chickpeas, or a protein chia bowl with oats. If she wakes up late, a smoothie is her go-to. Vegetarian or non-vegetarian Fasting is about nourishing the body and understanding hunger, building patience, and appreciating the struggles of the less fortunate. To prevent constant hunger pangs, eat slow-digest foods like oats with nuts, Greek yoghurt with chia seeds, lean meats with whole grains, paneer with flaxseeds, and rice with lentils. Balanced options such as egg with roti, dahi with chia seeds and dates, paneer with methi paratha, and dal khichdi with ghee offer sustained energy. A protein-heavy bowl of chia seeds with oats For protein, a mix of plant-based sources (lentils, beans, quinoa, tofu, nuts, seeds) and animal-based options (eggs, dairy, chicken, fish) ensures balanced nutrition. Vegetarians can pair smartly, like dal with roti or curd with chia seeds, to get complete amino acids. Both cooked proteins (eggs, chicken, fish) and raw ones (Greek yoghurt, nuts, chia seeds) are beneficial, providing complete proteins and probiotics, respectively. Protein shakes or smoothies are good for sehri if you struggle with solid food, but avoid sugary versions that cause energy crashes. A smoothie with dahi, banana, peanut butter, sattu powder, and chia seeds is a hydrating and protein-rich choice. However, excessive protein without enough water can cause thirst, slow digestion, and bloating. Balance it with hydrating foods like dahi, fruits, and coconut water. Boiled eggs with avocado; (right) a whey smoothie. Pics/Anurag Ahire VazirAli suggests finishing sehri 20-30 minutes before Fajr (morning prayers), to aid digestion and drink water for hydration. “Above all, eat mindfully. Remember that fasting in Ramzan is about discipline, gratitude, and self-reflection, not just filling up. Nourish your body, and you’ll find fasting more meaningful and manageable.” Kacche qeeme ki tikiya INGREDIENTS. 1 kg mutton mince (from the tender leg). 1 tsp ginger paste. 1 tsp garlic paste. 1 tsp cumin. 6 cloves. 8-10 black pepper. 1 tsp raw papaya paste. 60 gm chana powder. 2 tbsp brown onions. 1 tsp mix of nutmeg/ mace and cinnamon powder. 6 green cardamoms. 2 black cardamoms. 2 star anise. 1 tsp yellow chilli. 1 tsp pure ghee. 250 gm pure ghee (for frying). Salt to taste METHODMix all ingredients with the minced meat and make a fine paste. Smoke the mince in the oven and let it rest for half an hour. Make kebabs and shallow fry them in a heavy-based pan in pure ghee. Serve them with mint chutney. Recipe courtesy: Chef Osama Jalali
11 March,2025 12:12 PM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak SiddiqiIn a case of extreme measure, the owner of ramen shop Toyojiro, in Kyoto, Japan, put a bounty of 100,000 yen (R58,000) on Instagram to hunt down two male customers who left him a one-star review. He also threatened them with a nasty comment: “I’ll deal with you.” The comment was later pulled down after it was received with harsh criticism. The era of online reviews in India kickstarted when social media forums and travel websites offered a platform for users to voice their opinions. Over time, review systems were formalised and customers began to rely on them to make their decision — to buy a product, visit a restaurant or take a holiday. For the hospitality industry, the practice of handing out customers feedback forms was an old tradition of taking feedback. Today, reviews and ratings make or break the image of a restaurant. We spoke to chefs and restaurateurs on their tryst with online reviews, especially the ones that leave a bad taste (pun intended). ‘Negative reviews need action’ Sumit Gambhir, co-founder, Woodside InnWe study reviews across our brands on Google every week to understand what went wrong. The good reviews are always nice to read but negative reviews need responsible action. It helps when a customer explains in detail what went wrong — the reason a dish went wrong, service not being up to the mark, etc. We immediately put it on our operations group and try to find out the reason. When a name is familiar, we put it on Instagram or Facebook, and track the person. We invited them back. Most are surprised at this gesture. In hospitality, it is important to be responsive. For Burger Shop and The Pantry, which are delivery models, we get the reviews on food ordering apps like Zomato and Swiggy. The apps allow us to send them a message, cancel a billing and refund a sum. Last week, a tourist group, tired after walking around Colaba, dropped by Woodside Inn. The server requested them to wait at the bar. This group felt the server could have been warmer. Such a review helps us with internal training. ‘Address reviews’ Sameer Uttamsingh, co-founder and spokesperson, DonmaiUnfortunately, things do go wrong at times in a restaurant. You can’t have a perfect day every single day. It comes at the cost of bumping off a bill, but that’s what it takes. We want everyone to be happy. That’s what hospitality is about. With an online review, we ask them for their contact details, and try to resolve the issue starting with an apology. We don’t want people talking about a bad experience at our restaurant. So, it becomes important to address a review. ‘Bad review is a Catch-22 situation’ Shahrom Oshtori, owner, Sixteen33We tackle a bad review at the root cause — which is identified by checking CCTV, body language, behaviour and direct feedback if any. Hospitality industry is run by people, not machines. Mistakes happen. We learn to rectify. An online review does affect the image of a restaurant. The effect is similar to online shopping — we always check reviews before buying a product. While there is no way to determine if a user has visited the restaurant on Google, food apps only allow people who have ordered the food to comment. A bad review is a Catch-22 situation. We respond mindfully, as it’s read by so many. ‘I have blocked review notifications’ Devika Manjrekar, head chef and owner, Toast Pasta Bar & The Doughnut ShopOnline reviews cannot be ignored as people who don’t know about the chef or restaurant will check them before visiting. Most of our bad reviews are centred on people feeling they’ve paid too much, not gotten a reservation or that they didn’t have enough vegetarian options. That is not a critique, but it brings down your rating. Some reviews can be untrue. I am tempted to respond, but my team doesn’t allow me. We report harsh comments by people who haven’t even visited us. For us, good service comes first. We focus on ensuring the guest leaves happy. I have stopped getting notified of reviews because it ruins my day. ‘Customers check reviews, photos before they visit’ Aditya Jain, marketing head, Blah! SantacruzHalf the battle is won when a human speaks to a customer instead of a bot. In case of a bad experience, the staff usually makes note and informs us. A negative review by a customer can be because of multiple reasons such as they might have not liked the taste of a dish, overall service or the music was too loud. Today, customers check reviews, photos and overall social media comments on a place. ‘Customers sometimes are unreasonably unfair’ AD Singh, managing director of the Olive Group of RestaurantsIf people are happy, they rarely write a review. If they have a bad experience, they do write it and people tend to remember them and spread the word. Word of mouth is a powerful tool. For us, the customer is king. We’re in business because of them and their happiness is crucial. Online, there are all kinds of people saying all kinds of things, so the teams try to assess everything on merit. If it’s reasonably fair, then we’ll offer all measures to make up where necessary. It could be another meal or a line of credit to show that the place cares and wants to have moved past the bad experience. The tricky time is where we feel a review is unreasonable. Customers sometimes are unreasonably unfair. Then, we try to sort out the problem, and not let the situation blow up. ‘If it’s genuine, we invite them back for a meal’ Rachel Goenka, CEO, TCSC HospitalityOur team takes first-hand feedback from guests while they’re dining with us. This helps us gauge their experience. We can pre-empt a response to a negative experience such as a drink coming late to the table, or a dish not being up to their liking. Customers are more vocal about negative experiences than a good one, whether it’s at the restaurant or on online platforms. When we receive a negative review online, our first priority is to try and respond within 24 hours and get the customer’s details so that our manager can reach out and speak to them. Our service recovery is based on the nature of the review — for genuine concerns, we invite the customer back for a meal to the restaurant or send them a meal on the house.
08 March,2025 08:39 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum PandyaADVERTISEMENT
