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Waffle Week: Indulge in delicious waffles at these cafes in Mumbai
Double trouble Why choose one when you can have both? This double-layered delight is a combination of a waffle and a brownie that’s loaded with melted chocolate and almonds. So sinful! The Belgian Waffle Co.At Shop 6, plot 19, Shanti Niketan, Mahim. Call 8657787662 Cost Rs 600 Lemon-ey delight Try the Brussels waffles that can be clubbed with three flavours, but if you are looking for something that’s not too sweet, pick the lemon custard brulée. It comes with a side of maple syrup and vanilla chantilly cream, which is made in-house. Kuckeliku Breakfast HouseAt Kamal Mansion, first floor 4, 25, Arthur Bunder Road, near Radio Club, Colaba. Call 8591042796 Cost Rs 425 From the black forests Inspired by the classic childhood favourite black forest pastry, this black forest waffle is a classic deep pan waffle. It is served with cream, cherries, chocolate ganache, chocolate chips and shavings, and a seasonal fruit compote. Smoke House Deli At 462, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel (available at all outlets). Call 9152017981Cost Rs 425 For coffee lovers This one is not for the weak-hearted. The tiramisu experience waffle comes with a decadent chocolate base, loads of coffee, white chocolate and cheese cream! It’s a mad medley of bitter and sweet. Waffle WorldAt K-3, third floor, Food Court, Korum Mall, Near Cadbury Junction, Vartaknagar Manpada Zone, Khopat, Thane West.Call 9833441118Cost Rs 150 Take a break Here’s the good ‘ol chocolate bar Kit-Kat thrown into the delicious crunchy waffle with melted Belgian white chocolate. And voila! There’s a KitKat crunch waffle that’s less bitter-ey, and more buttery. BrufflesAt Shop 9, Daffodil CHS, Hiranandani Garden, AS Marg, Powai.Call 46001230 Cost Rs 140 Red love Bubble waffles, is a variation of the good old waffles and is a bit crunchier. The red velvet bubble waffle has dollops of white chocolate, milk and white chips; and is topped with two scoops of vanilla ice cream, and garnished with milk and white chocolate and chocolate chips. Dessert Cloud At CG Road, next to Raj Restaurant, opposite Hira Stores, Chembur. Call 7977695453Cost Rs 230 (full size) Blueberry cheese waffle Ingredients. 2 cups all-purpose flour. 2 tbsp sugar. 1 tbsp baking powder. 1/4 tsp salt. 1 and 3/4th cup milk. 3 tbsp vegetable oil. 2 tsp vanilla extract. 1 tsp almond extract. 2 tbsp spoon blueberry filling . 2 tbsp spoon cream cheese MethodWhisk all the dry ingredients together, before adding milk and oil and vanilla and almond extract to form a batter. Store it in the refrigerator for at least an hour to ferment. In a waffle machine, spread the butter with a silicon brush and pour the batter evenly. Cook the waffle at 170 degrees with the timer switched on. Once ready, keep it aside in a bowl. Mix the blueberry filling with cream cheese and spread it over the waffle like a sandwich spread. Garnish with your choice of sprinklers and serve. Recipe courtesy: Chef Aditya Purohit, Zoca Cafe . You can also order this blueberry cheese waffle. Zoca CafeAt Shop no 4, ground floor, Kshitij Building, Veera Desai Road, Azad Nagar, Andheri West.Call 7506926864Cost Rs 239
04 September,2023 07:02 AM IST | Mumbai | Pooja Patel
Dive into a mix of continental and Parsi flavours at this new Lonavala eatery
Food: ComfortingAmbiance: SereneService: PromptCost: ExpensiveVerdict: 1/4 The overcast sky caused a slight nip in the air, inspiring us to drive down to Lonavala. En route, we spotted tiny streams rolling into crevices of the green-topped ghats along the Expressway. The drive is scenic but we had an added incentive this time; the family responsible for creating the popular Cooper’s fudge since 1940, has now opened a new restaurant called Markaiz, and is a recent addition to Lonavala’s growing list of eateries. The name comes from Marzia and Kaizaan, the young members of the Cooper family who helm this new venture. A student hotel management and pastry baking from Le Cordon Bleu, London, Marzia, London, Marzia partnered with her sibling who pursued business studies from RA Podar College in Mumbai. The attractive standalone structure constructed by the family also offers a large open parking space. The signboard on the ground floor mentions the fudge shop that opened at this new address on Navroze last March. The restaurant followed this June. Markaiz, located on the first floor is bright, airy and roomy and has been designed by architect Bomi Irani. The space is divided into three: A cosy coffee shop that serves baked goodies; a lavish indoor dining space with a large bar and an oven where you see your pizza baking. Our preferred table, though, lies in the al fresco section. The lush green interiors as well as the soothing view of the rolling hills make for a therapeutic get-away. Burrata bowl; Cooper’s chocolate fudge cake; Khandala keri-keri collin The menu is a mix of continental and Parsi fare. “We always wanted to try continental and European food, but since we are Parsi, there was a certain expectation. Even when we opened the shop on the ground floor and were getting work done upstairs, patrons would ask us what was coming up. They would say, ‘You’ll serve Parsi cuisine, right? We want to eat dhansak.’ So we felt we must serve Parsi food as well. We don’t have an extensive Parsi menu; just a few select dishes. The recipes have been sourced from my mother and grandmother, and our executive chef Jenny Mooken has done a great job with both kinds of cuisines,” Marzia tells us, when we catch up with her after our meal. We try a bit of both, but lean towards the Parsi fare. We ordered a burrata bowl (R650) where fresh burrata is drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, balsamic caviar and pine nuts in a pesto base. It’s fresh, creamy, and almost luxurious on the palate. The crunchy chicken straws (R600) are crisp, elevated by the spicy mango ketchup they are served with. Our drinks are refreshing. The Khandala keri-keri collin (R600) with gin, raw mango, soda, lime, salt and ginger and the Khandala cooler (R600) with rum infused with cardamom, lime, mint, bitters and ginger beer are perfectly balanced in a manner that no ingredient overpowers the other. The Parsi fare is delicious and overpowers the other. The aromatic and flavourful chicken dhansak (R600), mutton cutlets served with saria (R600) and the salli gosht (R750) where succulent mutton is cooked in a tangy gravy and served with with potato salli and pav, turn out to be our favourites. While its café ambience and laid-back vibe won our vote, we found the pricing steep. Similar authentic Parsi fare is available at economical prices back in Mumbai’s Irani cafés. The menu also features wood-fired pizzas, pasta, soups, salads, savoury and sweet bakes, gourmet sandwiches and a long list of specialty coffees. The dessert menu is extensive too. Some of them also use the Cooper fudge as the star ingredient. There’s fudge cake, fudge croissants and fudge macaroons. While we tried the Cooper’s fudge chocolate cake (R380) the one thing we will keep coming back for is the moist, boozy layers of the tiramisu (Rs 428). We chose a weekday afternoon to visit Markaiz with the intention of skipping the busy Lonavala traffic over the weekend but we learnt later that the restaurant invites live performers from Lonavala, Mumbai and Pune every weekend; take your pick. MarkaizAt Cooper’s Fudge, 1st floor, Ryewoods, opposite Viner Resort, Thombrewadi, Lonavala.On Daily; 10.30 am to 11.30 pm Call 9373339099 (for reservation) 4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0.4/4 Average. Markaiz didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
01 September,2023 07:52 AM IST | Mumbai | Suprita Mitter
5 eateries in Mumbai that serve mouth-watering Italian cream buns
Like every culture has its own version of bread wrapped around a meat or vegetable filling, whether a hotdog, the Lebanese sfeeha, or vada pav, it seems as though we also have our own versions of a cream bun. If we didn’t make do or innovate them, we’d all go hungry or at the very least, dissatisfied. Now, while the term, maritozzo might be a new one for most sweet-toothed Mumbaikars, its description will ring nostalgic bells. This Italian cream bun is a sweet bread beautifully packed with whipped cream, and sounds a lot like the local bakery buttercream buns we might have grown up eating. You can’t go wrong with this gloriously sweet carb hit. And city eateries are making sure to offer maritozzi (plural) with twists. Maritozzo; (right) Nikhil Jain Coppetto Artisan Gelato launched their variation of the maritozzo with gelato in a sweet bun instead of whipped cream. Founder Nikhil Jain loves the combination of warm bread that isn’t as sweet as brioche and cold gelato, noting that it strikes a good balance. He adds, “People have a certain taste for desserts today; they are less tolerant of excessive sugar. The bread reduces the frozenness and sweetness of the gelato, making for a good pastry dessert. Executive head baker at Bandra’s TwentySeven Bakehouse, chef Rachelle Andrade serves the city a brioche bun with mascarpone — it is creamier and richer than whipped cream and gives a better mouthfeel, she notes. The fluffy bread and cream make for a light bite even though the maritozzo is quite large. The bakery also tops its product with seasonal toppings such as cherry compôte, mango passion fruit and milk chocolate. Chef Rachi Gupta; (right) Brioche with gelato Recalling a trip to Italy where the aim was all things gelato, chef Rachi Gupta of The Gelato Bar and The Bread Bar shares, “Maritozzo is traditionally a sweet bread with a whipped cream filling, some jam, and sugar dusting on top.” Bandra’s The Gelato Bar offers an in-house brioche bun with gelato. She continues, “During the winters, gelaterias [in Italy] serve crêpes, breads and pancakes because it’s too cold to eat gelato.” The combination of fluffy breads filled with cold treats seemed only inevitable. “In Sicily, granita or sorbet is served on the side of the brioche during the summers; warm buttery milk breads are also used to make a gelato sandwich or are dipped in gelato. You’ll see people eating it with a cup of coffee, or having a traditional breakfast of brioche and gelato,” chef Gupta tells us. Chef Rachelle Andrade But how far removed from the original can one go? That’s the best part about food, chef Andrade remarks. She says, “There can be unlimited variations, there is no right and wrong with maritozzo.” Jain adds, “It’s fun, everyone is doing something different. And as people [get used to] maritozzo, we can add different ideas to it like topping it off with coarse nut powder and seasonal fruit. Right now, we offer it with any gelato of your choice; my favourite flavour to pair it with is tiramisu.” The eateries have also had no trouble introducing the dish to customers. Chef Andrade adds, “With people travelling or reading and seeing things online, more people are aware of maritozzo and are curious to know what it tastes like.” With a simple bread-sweet filling-bread concept, maritozzo variations with croissants and donuts filled with different creams and gelatos have already become a favourite across city menus. Perhaps the only time this writer has savoured the traditional Italian bread-cream combination is a homemade version crafted by her sister, who assures that the dish is delightful to eat and easy to prepare. A cue perhaps, for Mumbaikars to create their maritozzo versions at home. Sweet, happy ending From the short list of stories, our favourite is the one where a man gives his wife-to-be a maritozzo with jewellery hidden inside. Eventually, marito or maritozzo became a term of endearment for husbands. Scoop up . Maritozzo, sweet bun with gelato At Coppetto Artisan Gelato at Bandra, Chowpatty, and Juhu outlets. Cost Rs 250 . Maritozzo, brioche with cherry mascarpone creamAt TwentySeven Bakehouse, Pali Hill, Bandra West. Cost Rs 180 . Gelato sandwiches with brioche and croissants At The Gelato Bar, Pali Hill, Bandra West.Cost Rs 280 . Brioche ice-cream sandwichAt Toast Doughnut Shop, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Lower Parel.Cost Rs 350 onwards . Croissant gelato sandwichAt Affogato, 17th Road, Khar West.Cost Rs 290 onwards
31 August,2023 07:34 AM IST | Mumbai | Tanishka D’Lyma
Mumbai ARMY to celebrate BTS Jung-kook's birthday K-pop style on September 1
The youngest member of the world-famous boy band BTS, Jeon Jung-kook will turn 26 on September 1. To mark the celebration, over 200 fans will gather at Mira Road’s Lata Mangeshkar Natyagruha Auditorium not only from Mumbai, but also from Bhopal, Bengaluru, Delhi and Pune. “It is going to be a treat!” exclaims Shital Sikarwar, founder of Tani Events and Entertainment, the media partner for the event. The Korean fare will include gimbap and kimchi fried rice “There will be several performances by popular Indian K-pop performers, K-pop-themed freebies, live DJ acts, games and merchandise, photo booth, stalls for Korean food, and of course, a birthday cake. This is an event where ARMY members and K-pop enthusiasts will come together to have fun, but for a cause,” she adds, explaining that all proceeds from the event will be donated to Ankur’s Children Home in Mira Road. Jung-kook. Pic courtesy/Instagram The event was planned by 30-year-old Riya Goon, a K-pop fan, and owner of BTS-themed restaurant Bang Tan Shefs. “The restaurant hosts [BTS and K-pop-themed] events like this across India. But we always try to weave in a good cause. I love K-pop, but at times, the fandom is so overpowering, that we end up forgetting our surroundings. This event, like many of our previous events, celebrates the music genre, but not without including the people and causes immediately around us,” Goon explains. Indian K-pop performer Kris The restaurant will cater for this event; the all-vegetarian menu will include their bestsellers such as veg pickled gimbap, exotic mixed vegetable kimchi fried rice and kimchi cucumber salad. Sikarwar adds that among the people that are expected to perform are Bhopal’s Ryuxin, Kris and Rishi from Delhi, Japan’s Koki, and Mumbai’s Axiom and Harshita Dave, among others. On: September 1; 3 pm to 7.30 pmAt: Lata Mangeshkar Natyagruha Auditorium, 588, Mahajan Wadi, Mira Road EastLog on to: @bangtanshefsrestaurant (registration link in bio)Entry: Rs 899
30 August,2023 07:42 AM IST | Mumbai | Devanshi Doshi
Avatara Dubai brings vegetarian Michelin star dining to Juhu this November
It's a few hours before service, and the kitchen is abuzz. The world’s first Indian cuisine vegetarian restaurant to have been awarded a Michelin star, Dubai’s Avatara is doing a showcase at Pune’s Conrad Hotel, with a 15-course pop-up meal. The event was crafted by Conosh, a Bengaluru-based platform that curates unique dining experiences with international chefs. “The team from Conosh approached us to host this pop-up in Pune in April, even before we won the star. The Michelin win happened in May,” reveals Rahul Rana, Avatara’s executive chef. The restaurant is part of the Passion F&B group, the parent company to Trèsind (Mumbai and Dubai) and Trèsind Studio in Dubai, among other restaurants. Avatara’s specials are a tribute to India’s diversity. The amuse-bouche is a combination of makhan malai (freshly churned butter) with popping mishri (rock sugar), saffron and panchamrita, inspired by the food that’s offered to the gods. There’s panasa, a jackfruit momo with sea buckthorn thukpa and black rice papad that celebrates Northeastern India; karuvelvilas is a delightful ghee roast karela with a mango sambar gelato and dosai crisp from South India; dalika, a horse gram curry with ragi bhatura and jakhiya aloo, is a hat tip to the chef’s home state — Uttarakhand. Gujarat finds representation in a unique version of jalebi-fafda, butternut dhokla and khandvi ice cream. There’s also a modern take on the humble khichdi. Panasa or jackfruit The dishes are meticulously crafted and almost too pretty to eat, while the flavours blend familiarity with surprise. “When you travel to showcase your food, you find new ingredients, get educated, and also educate patrons. We are opening an outpost in Mumbai this November,” the chef confirms. Intrigued, we chat with chef Rana to find out more. Excerpts from the interview. What can we expect at Avatara Mumbai?We are excited. At Trèsind in Mumbai too, we noticed that it’s a 60-40 split between the non-vegetarian and vegetarian patrons. There’s huge scope for an imaginative vegetarian fine-dining experience. Chef Sanket Joshi is most likely to head the Mumbai outpost, while I will be in the city to set up the restaurant initially. There will be a 16-course vegetarian tasting menu, cooked without onion and garlic. This will include a selection from our previous menu, and present menu with new dishes. There will be a live kitchen, like in Dubai, where people can interact with the chef during their visit. Chef Rahul Rana What inspired you to start an Indian vegetarian restaurant in Dubai?In the past, I’ve worked with various concepts across restaurants. However, I’ve always felt that vegetarian food doesn’t always get the appreciation it deserves. I hail from Rishikesh where I grew up in a predominantly vegetarian community, which exposed me to a varied cuisine where different possibilities can be explored. It was a conscious decision to steer clear of onion, garlic, paneer and mushroom. Instead, we chose turnips and bitter gourd as hero ingredients. The menu is inspired by fresh and seasonal ingredients. Tradition and innovation always go hand in hand. When people dine out, they expect a certain level of creativity. Here, we innovate while keeping traditional flavours and taste in mind. Take the example of the sea buckthorn thukpa and the jackfruit momo; if you visit the North East, it’s a common perception that people there are predominantly meat eaters. In their homes, however, vegetables are a staple, and jackfruit is one of them. Our take on the thukpa has sea buckthorn berries. I tasted it for the first time in Russia, and later discovered that it grows in Ladakh too. Even vegetarians don’t usually order karela and lauki at a restaurant. Bitterness is the flavour profile of the karela so people tend to reduce it while cooking. I wanted to retain the flavour as part of the aftertaste. Lentils are sourced from my hometown. The jakhiya (wild mustard) is also not easily available, and found only in Uttarakhand. Most importantly, we should be aware that these ingredients form a part of Indian cuisine. Karuvelvilas or bitter gourd served on the menu You have an interesting take on the khichdi where the presentation includes a world map. Tell us about the process?Seven to eight months ago, I discovered that the first world map was created by an Indian during the time of the Mahabharata. I have always been interested in the history of Indian food, and so I began researching the food available at the time. When the Pandavas were exiled to the forest, they would visit the homes of the villagers and request food. In the bag, people would put all kinds of ingredients such as rice, vegetables and lentils. When they returned home, they would empty the bag and cook all the ingredients together. That’s how khichdi originated. Khichdi in a bite is an ode to that. Naivedhya has a great significance in Indian culture; it stands for offerings to God. People tend to often confuse it with prasad. Whenever we consume food, we first offer it to God; this is naivedya. Once the food is blessed and we eat it, it is referred to as prasadam. In India, we also believe that before you start something good, you must sweeten the palate. This is a constant on our menu.
29 August,2023 07:31 AM IST | Mumbai | Suprita Mitter
Pasta with a twist
Peruvian taste We associate Pasta with Italy. But the dish has travelled all over the world, including Peru. Tallarines verdes is a version found in that country. A city eatery has made it available here. “This green pesto is tossed with spaghetti and usually served as a side,” shared executive chef Sushil Multani.Time: 12 pm to 12 amAt: Cafe Panama, Mathuradas Mills Compound, Lower ParelCall: 9988214444 Sage advice Sage is a herb that’s not easily available in this country. But a restaurant in Juhu uses it in a sauce used for a ravioli. The dish is called ravioli spinaci e bietola and has a sage-butter sauce that adds oomph to the flavour.On: 6.30 am to 11.30 pm At: Romano’s, JW Marriott Sahar, Vile ParleCall: 68828888 Two different Arrabbiata is traditionally a pasta dish with a tomato-based sauce that is opposite in flavour profile to aglio olio, which is a humble pasta made of garlic, olive oil and chilli flakes. This eatery does a different variation of both, where the arrabbiata is based on carrots and the pasta for the aglio olio is made of zucchini, which is why the dish is named called zoodles aglio olio. Dig in for alternative takes on two age-old recipes.On: 9 am to 10.30 pm At: Seeds of Life, Vora House, Pali Mala Road, Bandra West. Call: 9653336089
27 August,2023 08:13 PM IST | Mumbai | Shunashir Sen
Indulge in indigenous cuisines with a twist at Wild Food Fest in Kurla
Matru ki bijlee ka kantola; bamboo Marie with a dip infused with mahua and tamarind; kurdu cigars; and raan bhaji and gharbhandi pakodas — these are just some of the quirky names of dishes that are being devised by third-year students at Don Bosco College of Hospitality Studies, Kurla for the forthcoming annual Wild Food Fest. The festival, in its sixth edition, will be held in association with OOO Farms, a farm movement working with the tribal farming community for indigenous native and heirloom seed conservation, cultivated and foraged food documentation, tribal culture preservation and creation of a supply chain of more than 200 tonnes of tribal produce in Maharashtra and Gujarat. Of the 10 directors, seven hail from the tribal community and most are women. A woman from Rathva tribe of south Gujarat holds a basket of fresh mahua flowers Six years ago, its co-founder Shailesh Awate was invited as a guest to a pada in Jawahar, Palghar, where he sampled 35 wild vegetables — all with different flavours and aromas. “My palate had never witnessed anything like this. Every tribal family had cooked one dish for us and the head of the tribe questioned them about where they had found it, whether it was in abundance or was it scarce, and if it required conservation. It made me think of how, in the cities, we use words like sustainable, ecological, and organic loosely, but don’t practise putting the wisdom to use,” says Awate. That’s where the idea for the first Wild Food Festival was sown. With their first-mover advantage, the fest showcased 200 wild edibles and medicinal plants, and soon enough chefs and restaurants joined hands to set up a supply chain. “Our initial response was negative as we didn’t want to take away the tribe’s food and nutrition. However, they informed us that some wild vegetables grow like grass and are available even more than cultivated foods. We then created a wild food economy that fetched them more money than cultivated grains,” he adds. A wild food thali with over 40 wild vegetable preparations Today, they work closely with the Kokni, Warli, Mahadeo Koli, Katkari, Bhils, and Rathva tribes. Co-founder Shikha Kansagara says, “Interestingly, wild edible plants are naturally disease-resistant and adaptive to microclimatic changes such as low rainfall, high temperature, etc. Compare these with introduced or exotic plant species that won’t survive such changes — that’s the difference we must appreciate. This traditional knowledge of the many indigenous communities of India on edible resources and wisdom of consumption — transmitted from one generation to another — deserves documentation to widen our food sources.” Participants explore an array of indigenous food at a session At the festival, visitors will witness a documented showcase of 150 to 200 wild vegetables foraged from the forests of the Sahyadris. In fact, the Western Ghats have been identified as one of the 34 global biodiversity hotspots. There are over 40 wild vegetable dishes on the tasting menu. We sensed the enthusiasm while speaking to Annabelle Rodrigues (above), head of department, hospitality studies at Don Bosco College of Hospitality Studies, when she said, “The students are quite excited to be working alongside 20 tribal women who would be sharing their ancestral wisdom and recipes for these vegetables — we couldn’t have asked for better hands-on learning for our students. From waiting staff to chefs, to housekeeping — this event serves as a well-rounded experience for all our students.” At dinner, there will be a buffet spread of 25 dishes from mountain cuisine, cooked by tribal farmers. A cultural showcase of tarpa players, tribal dancing and Warli painting as well as a farmer’s market will also be a part of this event. In addition, there are panel discussions with domain experts like conservationists, anthropologists, scientists and chefs to create awareness about and understand non-cultivated wild foods and their importance. Annabelle Rodrigues Awate sums up the mood, “By hosting the festival at a hospitality college, they are creating a space where students, community members, and food enthusiasts can come together, learn from one another, and collectively celebrate the rich culinary diversity of Maharashtra’s tribal heritage.” A collection of wild corn On Sunday, August 27; 2.30 pm to 10 pm At Don Bosco College of Hospitality Studies, D-Wing, near Kohinoor Mall, Kurla West. Log on to www.ooofarms.com (to register) Entry Rs 1,250 per person
25 August,2023 08:04 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
We explore why Vada Pav is synonymous with Mumbai
Pav, vada and chutney — a trio that when clubbed together, makes a dish that every Mumbaikar knows and loves to devour. But what is the story behind this common man’s meal, which is sold on the streets and restaurants across the city? “Vada pav originated in Mumbai’s Dadar area, precisely near Dadar station’s Suvidha store. Ashok Vaidya was the first one to start serving and selling this dish on a small stall,” says Dr Mohsina Mukadam, a food historian. Vaidya was the inventor and founder of this iconic dish, that he invented sometime between 1967 and 1968. “It is a relatively new dish. Vaidya’s two sons now look after the same stall at the same location,” says Dr Mukadam, adding that in general, in India, one cannot isolate a dish from the politics and economics of the time when it was discovered . “The late 1960s was the time when Shiv Sena was getting a foothold. It was also the decade when several Udupi restaurants had cropped up in the city; people from the southern states had migrated to Mumbai and were getting employed in the private sector. So, there was a certain anti-South Indian sentiment, as well as the entire local versus immigrant unrest. All of this was expressed by late Balasaheb Thackeray in his political speeches in the late ’60s,” she elucidates. There was a lot of conversation around ‘protecting the Maharashtrian identity’ at least when it came to food. So it started with promoting and selling bhajiyas and vadas on stalls across the city; and from this, Vaidya decided to tweak it a little, and came up with the idea of making vada pav. For a dish to evolve, several factors need to come together. Like in this dish, there were a few reasons that pav was included. “Until the late 1960s, a major part of the society was not accepting any kind of bread, because there was a colonial shade to it — bread was introduced to Indians by Portuguese and the British. However, in the same decade (1960s), a lot of women had started joining the workforce, and so bread became an easy breakfast item,” explains the food historian. The reason that the good ‘ol vada pav is still so popular in the city is that the dish doesn’t require any cutlery to be eaten and neither do you need chairs and tables to sit and eat. “You can eat while walking on the road or before boarding the local train — it is well-suited to the fast-paced life of Mumbai,” concludes Dr Mukadam. Prawn vada pav Here’s a fun twist to the humble vada pav Ingredients >> 250 gm prawns (cleaned, washed and dry)>> One boiled and smashed potato>> 50 gm of fresh crushed coconut>> Two chopped green chillies >> Half a cup chopped coriander>> 1 small onion chopped >> Rice flour, as and when needed (for binding the vada) >> Red chilli powder>> Turmeric >> Salt (as per taste)>> Besan (gram flour) for batter >> Refined oil >> Water Ushri Guruji Method In a container mix prawns, potato, green chilli, crushed coconut, coriander, turmeric, salt. Mix all of these with your hands. Add besan and water (very slowly) so that you can make a thick batter out of it. Now, make four round vadas. In a deep pan, pour oil and heat it. Once hot, dip the batter vadas and deep fry them till they turn golden brown. Place the hot vadas in between the pav and serve with dry garlic powdered chutney, mint coriander chutney or even mayonnaise; with a side of fried chillies. Recipe courtesy: Ushri Guruji, home chef, @ushri_homechef Delish list Curious where the city’s popular restaurateurs and food entrepreneurs get their fix of vada pav? Read on to know Parvez Patel, owner, Ideal CornerI absolutely enjoy eating vada pav at Shree Datta Snacks in Panvel. The vada is not too salty and not too spicy, it’s perfectly balanced — it has a peculiar taste. At most eateries, vada pav usually has too much masala. This halt that’s near Panvel Phata en route to Goa, makes vada and the pav of the same size, which is rare. Asha Jhaveri, owner, Swati SnacksI have tried vada pav a few times and loved the version that are sold near Mithibai College, near Cooper Hospital. It is a small roadside stall, and the taste of the vada is absolutely amazing. The flavours are authentic and, not deep fried too much. I love their red garlic sukha chutney in it and the green chillies served with the dish. If I travel to the suburbs, I drop by. Munaf Kapadia, chief eating officer, The Bohri KitchenAram Vada Pav in the Capitol Cinema building (opposite CSMT) seems to have nailed the way a vada pav should be made. The taste is authentic and the masala that they make the stuffing in the vada gives it a delicious and distinct taste. It’s a no-nonsense vada pav. They always have freshly made vadas so they are always hot, and the pav is fresh and soft.
24 August,2023 07:44 AM IST | Mumbai | Pooja Patel
Honest review of this new Bandra eatery serving diverse flavours
Bandra’s Chapel Road has a brand new restaurant that promises to take you on a global culinary adventure under one roof that offers a spectacular setting below the night sky. Owned by actors and entrepreneurs Aman Singh Deep and Monika Rathore; and content creator Deepika Shah; Thea, the three-storied eatery has been named after the Greek goddess who lords over the sun, moon, and dawn. Seeking inspiration, its interiors have been designed to reflect this theme — the ground floor is dawn; the first floor has elements of the sun; and the second floor is an ode to the moon or nightfall. In the evening, the paper art on the ceiling gives a look of a night sky with clouds. Pics/Aishwarya Deodhar When we entered the place, magnitude was what came to mind. The ground floor seating has the patisserie, which is perhaps more suited for business meetings or quick stopovers with friends. We dropped by for lunch on the first level that also houses the bar. The top floor is a terrace space that comes to life at night. We began our meal with a bowl of cream of 4 mushroom soup with truffle oil (Rs 320), which tasted rich due to rich cream and truffle oil, which was balanced well with the tastes of button, shitakale, porcini and portobello mushrooms. The wide menu crosses countries and continents where dishes have been reinvented using indigenous ingredients by chef Juliano Rodrigues, who also helped us pick dishes. Creole broccoli florets and fox nut in sago basket Perhaps the prettiest dish was the creole broccoli florets and fox nut in sago basket (Rs 470), and caprese grande bruschetta (Rs 410) that soon followed. The florets tasted good too; who would have thought something as bland and repelling as broccoli could taste so delicious. The caprese grande bruschetta can be given a miss; though the pesto sauce was a good variation in the traditional caprese tomato salad, the sourdough was a tad dry. Next, the trio of lasagna (Rs 590) that has veggies, creamy corn florentine, and cheese is a dish that isn’t overtly cheesy. The rendang curry with edamame blue pea rice, grilled cottage cheese (Rs 600) was the showstopper for us. The coconut milk based curry had a certain silkiness that went well with the rice; and flavours of fried garlic and sweet chilly were well balanced and did not make it overwhelming. Rendang curry with edamame blue pea rice grilled cottage cheese Thea’s cocktail menu, which has been inspired by the Silk Route, has some bizarre, yet interesting cocktails. Calling it a symphony of eastern spices and western flavours, the drinks are designed to tease the taste buds. We sipped on the biryani cocktail (obviously!) (Rs 850) and the baklawa cocktail (Rs 850). The tequila-based biryani cocktail is not for the weak-hearted — there’s toasted rice water, caramelised onion, mixed spice bitters and supasawa. It was a curious dance on the palate, especially since it includes cashew nuts and raisins. The gin-based baklawa cocktail that is served with the pistachio crackers has extremely sweet notes, with flavours of cardamom. Our favourite was the poached pear (Rs 850) that had hints of cinnamon which blended nicely with red wine red wine reduction and whiskey. The city’s landscape, for all its many fine-dining experiences and celebrity-owned gourmet menus, isn’t exactly kind to the non-vegetarian who often find themselves staring at a dead end, when it comes to comfort food. Choices aren’t as extensive as one would expect. So our non-vegetarian picks came as happy discoveries. The crunch of bacon in Aman’s inspired brioche (Rs 680) was intact despite being wedged between lettuce and bread and the dressing wasn’t overpowering. Poached pear cocktail Very few places can manage meat-flavoured hummus well. So the behlahm hummus (Rs 600) won our vote. It was a perfect protein snack of chickpeas and lamb with mild hummus and no overpowering flavour of garlic. For those who love their bacon and eggs, the pork belly pair with kimchi rice, fried eggs + greens (Rs 750) is a one-pot meal. The bacon fried rice could’ve been less oily though, but we feel this one could become a crowd favourite. The dip with coconut milk base was interesting, without being too clawing. We ended the meal with brulee basque cheese cake (Rs 450) and bean to bar 70% chocolate pastry (Rs 325) that made for a sweet ending. By then, we had slipped into food coma despite the incessant traffic buzz outside. Opens: Today Time: 11.30 am to 1.30 am At: 68, Chapel Road, St Sebastian Colony, Sayed Wadi, Ranwar, Bandra West. Call: 7021499688
23 August,2023 07:57 AM IST | Mumbai | Pooja Patel
How this chef carries forward a fading culinary legacy with historical roots
Every family boasts of a kitchen secret; whispered by grandmothers to doting grandchildren during summertime soirees in the kitchen. For chef Manzilat Fatima, this was a little more special. The great-great-granddaughter of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, her kitchen secrets are deeply intertwined with India’s history. The chef and founder of Kolkata’s famed Manzilat’s will be serving a sample of this heritage at the Royal Rivayat at Ummrao Courtyard by Marriott. “When we were young kids, we did not realise the importance of the recipes. It was only when friends would visit that they would be astounded,” she reminisces. An engraving of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. Pic Courtesy/ Wikimedia Commmons The recipes, chef Fatima recalls, were never written down. Through generations of kitchen conversations between grandmothers, mothers and daughters, the right mix of spices, ingredients and temperatures were passed down. “In fact, I did not take the recipes seriously till I got married,” she admits. Over countless visits and landline phone calls, the chef would painstakingly reconstruct dishes till they tasted just right. Biryani with a difference Among the recipes is the famed Calcutta (Kolkata) biryani, a survivor from the tumultuous period of the exile of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. After the nawab was dethroned and exiled to Metiabruz in Kolkata, he sought to create a mini-Lucknow. “In Lucknow, the palace would see food arrive from seven kitchens led by chefs approved by the Nawab. In Bengal, he only had one kitchen. They had to resort to innovations,” the chef remarks, pointing to the potato in the Kolkata biryani. Why the ordinary potato, we wonder? “It was an exotic vegetable back then,” chef Fatima corrects us. In the early 19th century, the potato was still a new import in the Subcontinent. “It also had this quality of absorbing aromas and flavours from the spices to add substance to the biryani,” she remarks. Royal innovations She reveals, “I still remember that my grandmother used to prepare the korma of the biryani in mustard oil. Now, mustard oil is hardly ever used in Awadhi cuisine, but it is an integral part of Bengali tradition.” The famous galouti kabab, for instance, was invented for Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, another predecessor. “It is believed that as he grew old and was unable to chew meat, the chefs devised the kebab with a punch of meat, as well as the feel of a kebab,” she explains. A kebab platter Exploration of the past The venture in Mumbai is an example of this continued innovation. Among the highlights will be a rizala of mutton, dahi ki phulki — a signature Awadhi dish, galouti and shami kebabs and the ulta tawa paratha, as well as vegetarian variants such as kababs made of raw banana and rizala with mushroom and lotus stems. There is the vegetarian biryani too. For the purists, the chef says, “It was an integral form of Awadh’s Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb. Hence, the many variations of dal, arabi ka salan, and pulao make their presence felt.” Chef Manzilat Fatima picks out spices for a meal preparation Safeguarding the legacy While the oral tradition protects the secrets, the times demand a change. “I am thinking of writing down the recipes for a book,” she admits, adding that documentation is a necessary step to protect the culture from vanishing with time. “After all, I cannot let it end here,” she emphasises. Till: August 27; 6.30 pm onwardsAt: Ummrao Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport, CTS 215, Chakala, Andheri West. Call: 8976708345 for reservationsCost: Rs 2,999 onwards (non-vegetarian menu); Rs 2,499 onwards(vegetarian menu) Dahi ki phulki Ingredients For the phulki>> 1 cup besan ( gram flour)>> 1/2 tsp red chili powder>> 1/4 tsp garlic paste>> 1 pinch baking soda>> Salt to taste For the dahi>> 1 tsp black rock salt>> 1 tsp salt>> 500 gm thick curd>> 2 red chillies>> ½ tsp whole jeera>> 1 tsp roasted jeera powder>> 1 tsp garlic paste Method For the phulkiPut all the ingredients in a bowl, add water slowly and whisk to a thickish batter. Let it set for five to seven minutes. For the dahiTake water in a bowl. Add salt, red chilli and some garlic paste. In another bowl, take thick curd. Add some red chilli powder, roasted jeera powder, garlic paste, black rock salt and plain salt to taste. Whisk till it is creamy and add water to a nice pouring consistency before keeping it aside. For the dahi phulkiIn a pan, heat some oil on a medium flame. Put blobs of the besan mixture (phulki) in hot oil and let it cook. You will notice the inside batter oozing outwards. Stir lightly and turn them in the pan. Once the phulki is pinkish, strain and place them in the bowl with the water. Let the phulkis soften by soaking the water. After 15 to 20 minutes, softly press the phulkis and put them in the bowl of curd. Let them become softer. In another pan, heat oil, add whole jeera and two whole red chilies, put a tadka of it on the ready dahi ki phulki. Serve as a snack or as an accompaniment to any vegetarian or non-vegetarian dish.
22 August,2023 07:57 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram Iyengar
This Onam, relish the traditional Kerala Sadya feast by this Mumbai chef
This Onam, chef Sara Jacob Nair brings us superfoods in a traditional yet innovative sadya that highlights the nourishing qualities of each ingredient. But if you’re thinking about kale and avocados, you’re wrong. This writer would like to think of chef Nair’s first edition of Superfood UnSadya as a 101 lesson in rediscovering the ‘superfood’ elements of local produce. She tells us, “I don’t remember my mum and grandmum buying exotic vegetables. They always cooked what was local and seasonal. They respected what was available, and made a great dish out of it.” The Nair on Fire sadya uses traditional recipes along with the chef’s own twists which use local produce that suit Kerala preparations as well as introducing new vegetables to the cuisine. These include broccoli, sweet potato, black rice, ragi and moringa leaves that aren’t traditionally used in Kerala dishes. “For instance, I’ve used broccoli in a cutlet, which elevates the taste of the vegetable and adds a much-needed crunch to the sadya once the chips and papad are done. I fell in love with paneer when I came to Mumbai, and so I’ve also added a bit of paneer to increase the nutrient density of the dish,” she explains. Similarly, chef Nair has trumped the pulissery with moringa leaves, a great source of vitamins, calcium, iron, and amino acids. The kootu curry, usually prepared with banana and yam, has been reinforced with paduval and sweet potato which she says, is a match made in heaven as the sweetness of the shakarkandi complements the unique flavour of the paduval. (From left) Non-vegetarian and vegetarian festive spreads Borrowing recipes from non-vegetarian dishes, the tendli — usually eaten with prawns — is substituted with carrot. She continues, “The astringent flavour of the tendli combines well with the sweetness of caramelised carrot. And we can achieve the [flavour] notes of prawns from the carrot in this dish, too.” There are non-vegetarian options as well with a chicken dish that comes in an amaranth thoran as a one-pot dish, chicken cutlet and chicken palak perattu. And we cannot miss the payasam prepared with black rice, and can be eaten with the ragi-version of boli (similar to puran poli). This sadya, which comes boxed with a banana leaf and made available for takeaway and delivery, is made up of thoughtful pairings which have come from balancing taste and cooking methods. Chef Nair shares her insight, “The recipes in Kerala cuisine are mostly the same; they are simple, and use a few ingredients. And sadya meals must have six tastes — sour, sweet, spicy, salt, bitter and astringent (pungent taste or tingly feeling that gives the mouth a drying sensation, achieved in the sadya with fenugreek, bitter gourd, cauliflower, and turmeric). But how you balance the ingredients and flavours, how you choose the vegetables, the discipline with which you source and prepare them, is what matters.” Chef Sara Jacob Nair If you’re looking for a wholesome and nutritious sadya, this offering is an interesting option, especially for generations who might find it difficult to upkeep tradition or younger folk keen to celebrate their roots. To this, the chef adds, “If it’s not tasty, it’s not on the menu. There is no compromise on flavour here, and no compromise on the essence of sadya which is indulgence, peace and merriment.” And that makes for a happy Onam! On August 26, 27 and 29 (available for takeaway and delivery)Log on to @naironfireindia Call 9324059522Cost Rs 1,795 Onam feasting . Traditional sadya celebrationsOn August 29; 10 am to 12 am At Just Kerala, Samraj Hotel, Andheri East. Call 8928987146 Cost Rs 1,200 (dine-in); Rs 2,500 (takeaway for three people) . Unlimited sadya thali for dine-in and deliveryOn August 29; 12 pm to 11 pmAt Dakshin Culture Curry, Mili Building, Matunga West. Call 9820124433 Cost Rs 795 onwards . Special Onam mealOn August 29; 12 pm to 10 pmAt Kamats Legacy, Bhandup West. Call 9004054050 Cost Rs 699 onwards . Annual vegetarian Onam specialOn August 29; 11 am to 11 pmAt Hotel Deluxe, Pitha Street, Fort. Call 66559914Cost Rs 600 (dine-in); Rs 650 (takeaway) . Special meal with 24 delicacies On August 29; 12 pm to 4 pm (pre-booking mandatory)At Hotel Sunny, Shell Colony Road, Chembur. Call 25223549Cost Rs 1,200 (takeaway) . Sadya with 36 dishes On August 20 to September 1; 12 pm to 11 pm At Food Stories, Sai Sagar Complex, CBD Belapur.Call 6282713256 Cost Rs 499 . A vegetarian festive sadya spreadOn August 28 to 31; 12 pm to 11 pmAt Taste of Malabar, Dholakwala Building, Fort. Call 9769175094 Cost Rs 500 . Special Onam sadyaOn August 29; 11 am to 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 11 pm At Kerala Tales, Shreeji Plaza, Nerul. Call 7208473101 Cost Rs 700
21 August,2023 08:03 AM IST | Mumbai | Tanishka D’Lyma